Venice set itself apart from all other destinations as soon as the automatic doors disgorged me from the airport terminal.
Instead of finding a taxi to hurtle me into the city centre, I was ushered onto a private water taxi and sailed serenely towards one of the most iconic skylines in Europe. The terracotta bricks of this romantic city shimmered in the afternoon sun as the boat wove its way through the network of canals to land me on a jetty right outside my palatial hotel – a heavenly way to arrive in any city.
I had just two days to see Venice, but with a bit of careful planning, I managed to take in the key sights and sounds. Here’s how it can be done:
St Mark’s Basilica
The church guarding the remains of Venice’s patron saint really has to be your first stop. The Byzantine architecture evokes the exotic East but is overlaid with gothic elements; the result is graceful, curving domes and pinnacles bearing towering crosses.
Inside, the mosaics rival those of Istanbul, so wherever your eye falls, there’s another scene of incredible beauty to assimilate.
Large numbers of visitors mean that entry has become rather draconian and you get just 10 minutes to admire the interior. Beat the long queues by booking online at www.alata.it.
St Mark’s Square at night
The square in front of the basilica is the hub of the visitor’s Venice, heaving with tourists and full of the usual tourist trap restaurants. Explore it early in the morning or late at night to discover its true beauty. The lights will be on, but everyone else is at home and it becomes a really special place.
Get lost
This is, of course, incredibly easy in Venice and can be very frustrating if you need to be back at the hotel to catch your flight home. Signs are confusing, all canals look the same, and before you know it, you’ve crossed the same bridge four times.
With two days in the city though, you’ve got time to get lost as a way to experience the city. You can’t go too far wrong since you’re on an island, so relax and let Venice unfold beneath your feet.
Have an aperitivo
The Venetians love a good cocktail before dinner, and the Bellini, an aperitif of champagne and peaches, was invented in Venice at Harry’s Bar of Ernest Hemingway fame.
A local wouldn’t be caught dead there though; instead, they’ll be sipping a Spritz (usually white wine, soda water and Campari) at a chipped wooden counter in the depths of Venice’s backstreets – a wander there should reward you with a decent baccari (bar) with interesting cicchetti (snacks).
Take a (cut-price) gondola
Since ‘Venice’ and ‘gondola’ seem inextricably linked, it’s virtually impossible to resist the lure of a gondolier offering his services. They don’t come cheap though, especially since the boatmen tend to be quite skilled at parting tourists from rather more cash than strictly necessary. There are set fares, so don’t pay more than around €80 for a 40-minute daytime ride per gondola.
Alternatively, if you just want a brief taste of the gondola experience, jump on a one of the many boats that ferry pedestrians across the Grand Canal. It’s a short trip and you won’t have the boat to yourselves but it only costs a few euros.
Go bird watching
Venice lies on part of a 117-island archipelago in a wide lagoon. All this water attracts waterbirds, and Torcello is particularly good for wildlife because it was more or less abandoned by its inhabitants as it became more swampy. There are reedbeds, mudflats and walking tracks to follow.
Spend an afternoon here for the peace and the gorgeous views of hen harriers, bittern and avocets.
Buy Murano Glass
Murano Island in the Venetian Lagoon has been home to an elite band of glassmakers since the 10th century and they produce some really spectacular works of art – and some truly hideous souvenirs as well.
Avoid the package tours offered by hotels, and instead catch the number 12 or 41 Vaporetto to seek out the less touristy glass blowing studios.
If you want to buy, haggle hard. The island is lovely in its own right, so it’s worth it even if you don’t come away with a brightly coloured bauble.
Bridge of Sighs and Doge’s Palace
The only way to actually cross the famous Bridge of Sighs is to tour the Doge’s Palace, so it’s lucky that the Palace Ducale is a great draw in itself. It was home to the dukes that ruled Venice and housed a court.
The Bridge of Sighs is so named because it connected the palace court to the prison (also open to visitors) and prisoners would catch a last glimpse of the outside world through the bridge windows before descending to their dungeons.
Eat on the back streets
Unfortunately, Venice is packed with mediocre touristy restaurants. Try to avoid any restaurants in the main tourist areas and bear in mind that a coffee in St Mark’s Square will set you back almost the same price as a decent lunch on a side street or alley.
The Canneregio district has a few decent places.
Il Milion at 6025 Sestiere Castello comes recommended for moderately priced, quality food.
The Gondoliers congregate at Il Diavolo e Acquasanta on Calle della Madonna, near the Rialto, which has got to be a good sign.
Cool down with a gelato
The Boutique del Gelato is on Salizzada San Lio and its huge queues are testimony to the quality. Eat one in the shade for a well deserved break.