The Valletta Waterfront played host to events and cultural displays commemorating the eve of Mnarja on June 28.
Animators and entertainers performed, flanked by stalls stretching down towards a large stage. The entire set-up was well coordinated.
Strolling musicians strummed lutes and blew pipes. A donkey and a mule kept each other company, harnessed to the kind of picturesque carts you’d more likely see varnished and expertly tilted in somebody’s fantasy farm.
There were displays of fresh local produce and poultry (still clucking) that are a cornerstone of the feast – nowhere near as extensive or impressive a selection as the one in Buskett, but it was perhaps the most traditional aspect of the event.
One man was busy at a loom, another held out his arm to show a beautiful hooded falcon. Numerous stalls sold jewellery or honey and the most appealing of these were Kezia and Fawwara respectively.
A man working cane made baskets and an older woman built a tower of ‘mature cheeselets’ (ġbejniet) while costumed children played ‘traditional games’. It almost felt as though I had walked into a miniature display of ‘Ye Olde Malta’ in San Anton gardens.
There certainly was food – Maltese platters, candyfloss, pancakes, popcorn and pots of freshly made strawberry jam. The multitude walked up and down the stalls, pointing, tasting and enjoying themselves. There’s a place for this kind of entertainment alongside Buskett’s more authentic Mnarja.
This eagerness to accommodate goes some way towards explaining the musical entertainment for the evening, from which għana was conspicuously absent. Live performances included an exciting line-up by Mediterranean folk-fusion ensemble Nafra.
Patriotic songs blared to the sound of electronic music courtesy of Tony Camilleri. Later, Ludwig Galea and the Paul Curmi Dancers took to the stage.
Ġukulari, an ensemble known for its revivals of Maltese music in period costume, provided a dainty counterpoint to the more pop-oriented sounds. Dances were also performed by Kumittiva – 32 ‘village’ dancers and musicians from Gozo.
The event was successful because it didn’t take itself too seriously. Selling Maltese culture to tourists (and the Maltese) is nothing new here.
It’s the juxtaposition of Malta’s various periods and characters that best expresses the experience. There’s no reason to question the validity of Valletta’s Mnarja effort as anything more or less than a fun time had by all – lacking only Buskett’s mystery and the għannejja’s songs.