From Christmas markets and vibrant keilidhs to brightly-lit big wheels and steaming mugs of mulled wine, Edinburgh is renowned as one Europe’s most stunning settings for the festive season. Jo Caruana dons a kilt to find out more.

Edinburgh has a very special place in my heart. Having spent my university years there, it will always remind me of new beginnings and exciting times – but it also reminds me of Christmas.

This is Christmas shopping at its most atmospheric, enveloped in a glow of cinnamon, gingerbread and smiling faces- Jo Caruana

This isn’t because I spent Christmases there – I didn’t, travelled back to Malta instead. Nevertheless, the run up to the ‘most wonderful time of year’ in this incredible city is hard to beat and just as delightful as Christmas week itself.

Edinburgh springs to life in late November, as if ignoring the arctic chill that usually fills the air, and instead choosing to inject oodles of fun, food and festive spirit.

While it’s still not as manic as the bustle of the city’s August festival, it guarantees to get you in the mood for St Nick’s impending arrival. And Brits agree – a recent UK-wide survey found that 70 per cent of Britons voted Edinburgh to be the best city to spend Christmas.

Meanwhile, as the flying time from Malta to the Scottish capital is just over three hours, it makes the ideal location for a quick shopping and cultural getaway. So what are you waiting for?

Things usually get going around St Andrew’s Day on November 30, marking the anniversary of the country’s patron saint. This year, though, the official kick-off will be November 24, with Light Night, when the city’s festive lights will be switched on amid much revelry.

This is also when the Edinburgh Wheel starts turning, crowds flood into the area around the main thoroughfare of Princes Street and the famous markets are once more packed with produce. These markets are a major attraction and are held through December, a tradition that dates back to medieval times.

This is Christmas shopping at its most atmospheric, enveloped in a glow of cinnamon, gingerbread and smiling faces.

There are actually several markets on the go at the same time. The German Market is run by stallholders from Frankfurt and sells a mix of food and drinks (including hearty sausages, fried potato cakes and German beer), as well as great gifts.

The Highland Village Christmas Market in East Princes Street Gardens is a treat for anyone hoping to take home a piece of Scotland, with everything from woolly hats and Scottish teddy bears to Scottish produce – such as venison burgers, candles and quirky clothes.

Meanwhile, in line with Edinburgh’s increasingly eco-approach, the Ethical Christmas Fair is the place to pick up fair-trade goodies, eco-treats and sustainable gifts.

Finally, one last highlight (if you were still on the lookout for a reason to head north in time for Christmas) is bound to be the great Santa Run. Quirky and fun, this is when thousands of Father Christmases come together to jog around Princes Street Gardens for a good cause.

And, right there, in that moment, as you listen to the tuneful voice of a nativity carol singer, sip on piping hot chocolate and watch puffing santas make their way through the gardens, you can sum up what makes Edinburgh so special at this time of year – true, unabashed and gloriously good-fun Christmas spirit.

Edinburgh - Festive facts

One of the highlights of the Edinburgh Christmas festivities is the giant, brightly-lit tree that sits on the Mound, just off Princes Street. It was actually a gift from the Hordaland County Council in Norway to the City of Edinburgh, and marks the close historical and cultural links that developed between both cities in World War II. The traditional Norwegian Advent concert and the Christmas tree lighting ceremony are now firm favourites in the city’s celebrations.

Edinburgh’s much-loved Nativity scene is once again set within the bustling St Andrew Square offering the chance to contemplate Tim Chalk’s thought-provoking sculpture. The big wheel’s 33-metre span towers over Princes Street and the gardens, offering the best possible view of the city lights.

Not one but two spectacular fireworks displays will take place at both ends of Princes Street, over the iconic Edinburgh Castle and the monuments on Calton Hill, to herald the start of 2012. To really get into the Hogmanay spirit and to welcome the New Year with a splash, join in the fun of the Loony Dook, when hundreds of people jump into the River Forth in the shadow of the world-famous Forth Rail Bridge in aid of charity.

Hogmanay – The greatest street party in the world

Few New Year events come close to Edinburgh’s Hogmanay – a three-day festival that attracts around 80,000 people. A jam-packed schedule runs from December 30 to January 1, packing in concerts, fireworks displays and lively parties.

This year promises the biggest line-up ever, with superstar DJ Mark Ronson, Friendly Fires, Primal Scream, Capercaillie, The Cuban Brothers, Peat-bog Faeries and Frisky and Mannish.