Cibo Mediterraneo 

by Carmel Cassar

translated by Carla del Zotto

published by Graphe.it

This 205-page book, Cibo mediterraneo. Modi alimentari mediterranei: tendenze e sviluppi storici, which Carmel Cassar originally penned (not published) in English, has been skilfully translated into Italian by Carla Del Zotto, ensuring the preservation of the original author’s intent and insights.

It is a comprehensive guide for readers interested in this region’s culinary heritage and traces its history from prehistoric times to the modern era.

This is not a recipe book. While it does include some, the recipes are largely narrative and do not always provide precise measurements, reflecting the oral traditions of culinary transmission in ancient times. Many ancient recipes were intended more as reminders than detailed instructions.

Cassar elegantly links political, cultural and culinary history, with a considerable portion of the book dedicated to the latter. He delves into the civilisations that shaped Mediterranean cuisine, including prehistoric cultures, Mesopotamia, ancient Egypt and Israel, the Phoenicians, ancient Greece and Rome, the influences of Christianity, the Arab world, the Middle East, the Ottomans, and later developments in Medieval and Renaissance Europe.

His comprehensive examination extends into the Americas and modern cuisines, providing a broad perspective on the evolution of culinary traditions.

Cassar weaves a rich tapestry of facts and details while retaining an accessible and engaging narrative. Drawing upon an impressive array of ancient Mediterranean sources, Cassar’s research includes references to Sumerian tablets that detail food distribution and agricultural practices and ancient works by notable figures like Homer, Herodotus and Archestratus of Gela, who discuss Greek culinary practices.

He refers to Athenaeus of Naucratis’ encyclopaedic exploration of banquets and Pliny the Elder’s Natural History, which offers valuable information about food in Roman times. Cassar’s extensive bibliography underlines his commitment to thorough and scholarly research.

Key ingredients such as bread, olive oil and cheese are focal points throughout the book. Bread, a staple across all Mediterranean societies, has acquired profound religious significance in Christianity and has often become a flashpoint for political and social tensions up to modern times.

Olive oil also plays a pivotal role, essential for cooking, food seasoning and healing practices. Cheese, extensively celebrated in Mediterranean culture, highlights the dietary staples that have remained central throughout history.

In Mesopotamia, recipes included at least three seasonings with an extensive variety of ingredients, such as over 20 types of cheese and more than 100 soup recipes.

Egyptian cuisine, though not documented in recipe books, is depicted in tomb murals, indicating a lavish diet for the upper class. Diverse foods accompanied the dead to ensure a comfortable afterlife.

In ancient Israel, food laws outlined specific dietary restrictions, defining kosher animals while forbidding the consumption of crustaceans and prohibiting certain cooking practices, like boiling a kid in its mother’s milk.

The Phoenicians’ diet was based on cereals, legumes and vegetables, as well as fruits like dates and figs, complemented by meat from sheep, cattle and various birds.

This rich tapestry of culinary development underscores the intricate connections between cultures and their cuisines

The expansion of the Roman Empire necessitated an increased wheat supply, initially reliant on imports from Sicily and later Egypt, alongside olive and vine cultivation growth. The emergence of Christianity brought about fasting practices that restricted the intake of meat and animal products, promoting the cultivation of staple ingredients like wheat and wine (products with religious connotations).

Byzantine cuisine included unique preparations, such as twice-baked, hard biscuits for troops, enabling extended storage.

Key ingredients such as bread, olive oil and cheese are focal points throughout the book. Photo: Shutterstock.com

Middle Eastern cuisine has roots in ancient Mesopotamia, enriched by later Persian influences. The fine cuisine of Baghdad and Damascus significantly influenced Spanish gastronomy, subsequently shaping culinary practices throughout Europe.

The grandeur of the imperial Ottoman kitchens, often hosting thousands on special occasions, highlights the rich culinary tradition that evolved in this region. Central to Islamic cuisine were pasta resembling spaghetti and finer vermicelli noodles, known as Fidawsh, which contributed to the eventual popularity of pasta in Italy.

Renaissance banquets exemplified the era’s opulence, with events serving hundreds of dishes, showcasing a trend toward grandiose feasting. Columbus’s voyages introduced new ingredients to Europe, including corn, potatoes and tomatoes. Notably, tomatoes faced initial resistance due to mistaken perceptions of toxicity but later became a staple in European cooking.

In the 12th and 13th centuries, French cuisine emerged with significant advancements. Meat preparation and presentation transformed the end-product, favouring marination and delicate sauces over the previously prevalent sour and spicy flavours. This shift eventually led to the relegation of sweets to the end of meals, a practice solidified in the 17th century.

Brillat-Savarin’s influential work, The Physiology of Taste, published in 1825, marked a turning point in culinary arts. It married culinary arts with scientific principles and paved the way for the modern restaurant concept. This era encouraged the simplification of recipes and aligned food enjoyment with healthy eating practices.

Additionally, the introduction of chocolate, tea and coffee in Europe is noteworthy, particularly the latter, which was brought from Turkey and was thus associated with Ottoman culture. This led to a ban from Western religious figures but gained acceptance after Pope Clement VIII embraced its flavour with a blessing.

This rich tapestry of culinary development underscores the intricate connections between cultures and their cuisines, revealing a history of exchange and adaptation that would shape European culinary landscapes.