The idea of writing a series of articles packed with photos of pillboxes was always on my mind. My aim is to record as much as possible the remaining pillboxes and share their details with the public. 

This series started last year with three features about the pillboxes and other field defences of Mellieħa (Read part one, part two and part three). Now is the time to tackle the known remaining pillboxes of St Paul’s Bay. The position of these pillboxes prevented them from being bulldozed to make way for new developments or roads. 

To understand better the reason behind the construction of these important military architectural structures, we have to go back to the origins of the threat of invasion of Malta before and during World War II.

Pre-war Italian invasion plans

The first mention of Malta by the Italian naval authorities was in 1936, during  the Abyssinian crisis. They stressed the importance of capturing the islands in the event of conflict between Italy, Germany and Albania, on one side, and Britain, France, Greece and Turkey, on the other side.  The importance for the Italian naval authorities of the Maltese islands was mentioned more profoundly in 1938, especially in June and November. After Germany invaded Poland in September 1939 and Italy remained neutral, the Italian naval authorities continued to make invasion plans in the event of war with Britain.  After the Italian declaration of war, the first mention of St Paul’s Bay in the invasion plans was that presented by the naval authorities on June 18, 1940, eight days after Italy’s declaration of war. The plan included the use of 10 large boats to disembark troops at St Paul’s Bay, more precisely at Pwales Bay.  

Building of the first group of pillboxes, 1935-39

Although the first building programme of pillboxes and other field defences began in 1935, when Italy invaded Abyssinia, the first real pillboxes were built around August 1938. Civilians started to purchase land or it was ceded by the government to the War Department for the building of pillboxes and other type of defences. It seems that the actual building of pillboxes started in 1938 by the Royal Engineers. 

Many of the pillboxes built during this period were beach posts and depth posts and were built mostly along the two most vulnerable bays in St Paul’s Bay, that is Pwales/Xemxija Bay and Salina Bay. Few of these pillboxes survived the development frenzy of the 1950s and 1960s.

Building of the second group of pillboxes, 1939-42

Meanwhile, as a result of the growing threat of war, after the occupation of the whole of Czechoslovakia, in March 1939, the previous type of pillboxes was discarded. These had stone- cladding camouflage and curved fronts, which took a while to construct. A new type of box-shaped pillbox, which was simpler to build, was thus introduced. Most of these new pillboxes were built inland, again by the Royal Engineers, and some of them still exist. 

There were three main types of pillboxes built during this period and many of them were not camouflaged. Those which were painted were camouflaged to look like rubble walls or even painted to appear as rural farmhouses; doors and windows were also added to the latter type. As mentioned above, the pillboxes built during this period had the shape of a box. Nearly all of them had four rectangular machine-gun portholes in the four corners of the structure. 

They had also an observation turret either in the middle of the pillbox roof or at the front. The latter generally consisted of a high-rise turret that is raised from the ground floor. The observation cupola was reached by a ladder. In the middle of  each wall there were two rifle loopholes and an entrance hatch on the rear. Although the first raids on Malta began on June 11, 1940, the building of pillboxes continued till the siege was lifted, in mid-1942. 

The vulnerable bays were not only defended by pillboxes but also by a number of obstacles laid in the sea and on the beaches. 

These consisted of five-feet high concrete pyramids with iron spikes, weighing one-and-a-quarter of a ton each, which were laid along the one fathom line in two rows, 20 feet apart and 20 feet between each obstacle. By the end of September 1940, these type of defences were laid at St Paul’s Bay and Salina Bay. 

How the pillboxes were armed and supplied

The beach posts were generally armed with Vickers 0.303-inch machine guns while the depth posts and reserve posts were armed with Bren guns. Apart from these small arms, soldiers could also use their rifles from the small loopholes that all the pillboxes had. All the machine-gun portholes and rifle loopholes had a shutter which could be closed in colder days. Every pillbox had sufficient ammunition so that, in case of an invasion, they could resist for a number of days. Many of them also had a Bren gun mounted on a tripod to be used against low-flying enemy aircraft. These Bren guns were surrounded with sandbags against enemy bullets. 

Every pillbox also had a small water tank for the soldiers’ daily use. 

There were wooden beds inside every pillbox, where the soldiers could sleep at night. The soldiers were also supplied with their daily needs like skimmed milk, coffee and other food items and had kettles, mugs, bowls and kitchen pots, all made of enamel. 

Each structure had a telephone connected with other pillboxes and the headquarters. Each pillbox was surrounded with double-barbed wire in case of an invasion by enemy soldiers. This would have prevented them from reaching the structure.

Italian/German preparations for the invasion of Malta, 1942

The Italian naval authorities continued to prepare invasion plans of Malta. The Italian authorities knew every detail of the Maltese islands; obviously this was helped by air photography (and probably those Maltese who remained in Italy helped them too). 

In his book Operazione C3: Malta, Mariano Gabriele included in the appendices a résumé of a reunion, dated March 6, 1942, which consisted of the studies made by the Italians, who included Admiral Tur, General Sogno, Comando Supremo Italiano and a group of Japanese experts. It must be said that the latter had already vast experience of seaborne invasions and successful landings in the Far East, against Allied colonies, between December 1941 and March 1942. 

It is interesting to note that in this reunion, Admiral Tur suggested that Gozo had to be invaded by 3,000 troops and these were to be held as reserve for the subsequent action against St Paul’s Bay (Pwales Bay). No details was given as regards the type of action these soldiers were to participate in. However, one can deduce they were to reinforce the landings in St Paul’s Bay.

By mid-April 1942, the Germans had begun to take a more practical interest and a joint German-Italian staff was set up. New plans jostled one another but certain firm agreements were gradually reached. The Italians, in conjunction with the Germans, knew that much bombardment of the islands had to be done to soften the military installations. 

By May, the definite plan was prepared for the invasion of the islands by the Regio Ezercito (Italian Royal Army), Regia Marina (Italian Royal Navy) and Regia Aeronautica (Italian Royal Air Force), in conjunction with the Germans. According to these plans, the main target in the invasion was going to be the southern part of Malta.

Here, however, only the plan for the St Paul’s Bay area is going to be discussed.

As already highlighted, the main concentration of the final enemy invasion plan, Operazione C3/Operation Herkules, does not make any reference to an attack or landing at St Paul’s Bay. Only Salina Bay is mentioned briefly, which was to be attacked by the advancing enemy troops from the south of Malta. It is very intriguing to know why St Paul’s Bay was not included in any form of attack, such as a feint or real landing. 

Both Mellieħa Bay and Għajn Tuffieħa Bay were included in the final invasion plan, for feint attacks, and this was obviously meant to alienate and give the impression to the Malta Command that landings were going to be launched there. St Paul’s Bay too is very accessible to any type of seaborne attack.

Local anti-invasion defences 

The 2nd Battalion Royal Irish Fusiliers arrived in Malta in September 1939 and spent their early days constructing defences by reinforcing the beach posts with belts of barbed wire along the coastline. Photos exist of soldiers of the Royal Irish Fusiliers fixing barbed wire at Mistra and experimenting with an 18th-century fougasse. 

In April 1940, they moved out of their peacetime barracks and marched to man the coastal defences of St Paul’s Bay, Buġibba and Qawra, with headquarters at San Pawl tat-Tarġa overlooking the Victoria Lines. 

After the arrival of the Manchester Regiment of the 8th Battalion from Gibraltar on May 20, 1940, the battalion was split in company locations throughout Malta. ‘C’ Company was stationed at St Paul’s Bay. This is the only known information about the infantry battalions and companies that defended St Paul’s Bay, at least in 1940 and, possibly, in 1941 too, before a major change occurred.

In early 1942, the 2nd Battalion KOMR was given a new role: that of forming part of the strategic reserve. The battalion’s headquarters were established at Casa Torregiani on Wardija Hill, with the company headquarters at Wardija Battery. The first aid post was established at Mġarr government school. The rifle companies were deployed at Għajn Tuffieħa, Ġnejna, St Paul’s Bay, Buġibba and Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq. This last company had its company headquarters at the ‘Oasis’, later known as ‘Corner House’, at the bottom of the Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq Road. ‘B’ Company was established at Zamitello Palace, Mġarr. Lieutenant Colonel Victor G. Vella was appointed commanding officer 2nd Battalion KOMR.

A considerable number of pillboxes were built in St Paul’s Bay, which were divided into beach posts, depth posts and reserve posts. Apart from these structures, mines, both anti-personnel and anti-tank, and barbed wire were laid in order to mini­mise the chance of enemy soldiers destroying the village during invasions. 

The British knew also that the enemy’s first move was the neutralisation of the coast and anti-aircraft defences. So, probably, intense bombardment from the air would have been the first stage of defence, followed by securing the approaches to the beach. 

According to the Malta Command Mili­tary Defence Scheme 1942, at least two places were identified where gliders could land at St Paul’s Bay. The locations were east of Wardija and in the Pwales Valley. The 2nd Batallion KOMR formed part of the following:

Northern infantry brigade
No. of BTN	Name of the Regt.
8	Manchesters
2	Royal Irish Fusiliers
1	King’s Own Malta Regiment
2	King’s Own Malta Regiment

On June 29, 1941, the 13th Mobile Coast Defence Regiment was designated 26th Defence Regiment with 15th, 40th, 48th and 71st Defence Batteries. The four Royal Artillery (RA) batteries were amalgamated into two pairs and were rolled out as mobile field artillery, 15/40th Battery with one troop of four 3.7-inch Howit­zers, one troop of four 6-inch Howitzers and one troop of six 18-pounders and 48/71st Battery with one troop of four 6-inch Howitzers and two troops each of six 18-pounders.

To add to the coastal defence, two 18-pounder field artillery were situated in the following locations:

Allocation of QF 18-pounder field guns, January 1942
Code	No. of field guns	Place	Unit
XDN 17	1	St Paul’s Bay	48/71th Battery
XDN 18	1	Buġibba East	48/71th Battery

However, the defence scheme’s field artillery layout, which does not include the month, shows that there were at least the following field artillery:

Allocation of field guns, 1942
Field Gun	No. of field guns	Place
18-pounder	1	Pwales Bay
18-pounder	2	Buġibba
18-pounder	2	Burmarrad
6-inch Howitzer	4	Burmarrad

Apart from the above-mentioned artillery, there were at least two outdated anti-tank guns that were distributed as follows:

Allocation of anti-tank guns,1942
Field Gun	No. of anti-tank guns	Place
6-pounder	1 static	Pwales Valley
3-pounder	1 static	Burmarrad

In several important roads and streets, concrete pyramids, more popularly known as dragon’s teeth, were laid in order to block the advance of the enemy in case of an invasion. In roads like Marfa Road, many of these concrete pyramids and iron girders in the form of an X were laid. These obstacles would be laid in the middle of the road in order to block enemy tanks. Only a small passage was left for local transport to pass between them.

Apart from these obstacles, several types of booby traps were laid in the countryside, including mines and an ingenious obstacle which consisted of two crossed pieces of wood: when the horizontal one was hit, it would fall on an explosive and cause an explosion.

All the Mellieħa bays were provided with a thick system of mines, booms and concrete pyramids, which were laid as obstacles in the event of enemy invasion. Every 100 yards, a dragon’s teeth or concrete pyramid was laid on the beach.

There were only concrete pyramids as underwater obstacles in order to prevent landing. These consisted of concrete pyramid blocks with spikes and laid in two rows five yards apart. Blocks in the second line covered gaps in the first. These underwater obstacles were put in the following bays:

Bays where underwater obstacles were laid and their code number, 1942
Place	Code Number
St Paul’s Bay	3735
Salina Bay	3952

These defences were never put to test because invasion never happened. It must be said that many of these defences were outdated or not comparable with the armaments that were being used at the time, both by the Axis and the Allies. These defences were meant, at best, to delay the invaders rather than to repel them. Local terrain had its role to play too.

These defences were aided by the pillboxes which, although they seemed to have been constructed randomly, were, in fact, effectively built as stoplines in the form of beach posts, depth posts and reserve posts.

These stoplines followed natural obstacles, beginning at the shoreline with beach posts and falling back inland in stages with the depth posts, according to the lie of the land, with each line being strengthened further by mines, anti-tank obstacles and barbed-wire entanglements. The last line of defence were the reserve posts.

A few weeks before the scheduled date for the invasion in mid-July 1942, General Erwin Rommel captured Tobruk and entered Egypt. When Hitler realised victory in North Africa appeared to be within his grasp, he postponed indefinitely Operazione C3/Ope­ration Herkules. There were many reasons why the plan to invade Malta was shelved.

Many in the German High Command agreed with Hitler. Hermann Göring was afraid of a second costly ‘Crete’ with a gigantic number of casualties. Operation Malta was shelved and Operation Herkules was officially set aside in August 1942.

After the fall of Tobruk, some of the men and material earmarked for the assault on Malta were transferred to reinforce Rommel’s Afrika Korps. The Italians’ fleet was not relied on. Apart from this, they were blamed also for not taking Malta after the start of hostilities.

Acknowledgements

Charles Debono is the curator of the National War Museum. The author wishes to thank all those people, including colleagues, who encouraged him to continue with this series on pillboxes. The idea was born after the author’s first book Wartime Mellieħa: The Role of the Village in the Second World War. If readers have any information on anything related to pillboxes in their respective town or village, they may e-mail the author at charles.a.debono@gov.mt.