I can’t claim any expertise on the story of Malta and its inhabitants. However, a lucky auction find provides a window into the society of Malta’s governing elite during the late 1800s.

It is a diary dated 1894, set notably in Valletta. One of eight unpublished journals kept between 1820 and 1941, it turns out that the Jane Austen-like early diarist Constantia Foster is the great-great-grandmother of the writer of the three busier, arguably more interesting, diaries spanning the Victorian era and World War II. Further unravelling of their investigation is for another time.

The helpful inscription in the 1894 diary identifies its author as “Esme Elliott, Auberge d’Aragon, Malta”. A 16-year-old English girl with a charmed lifestyle among the upper echelons of the country, we learn not just about her own daily activities and antics but also those of her family and friends, many eminent characters of the period.

Despite the often sketchy military history details and, at times, frivolous goings-on, the diary entries reveal insights into aspects of British-occupied Malta from a unique perspective.

A 16-year-old English girl with a charmed lifestyle among the upper echelons of the country

Since posting extracts from all the journals on Facebook, I have been asked to share my Maltese diary story.

Edith Sophie Mary Elliott, known as “Esme”, was born in Wiltshire, England, on August 18, 1877, to Constance Mary Elmslie (1857-1931) and Reverend George Luther Elliott (1848-1891). After her husband’s death, in 1892 Constance married Major-General Charles Knowles (1835-1924), posted to Malta to command the British troops between 1892 and 1895. He went on to command the forces in Egypt from 1895-1897, and I have Esme’s 1897 diary covering some of that time.

Esme Elliott, c. 1898. Photo: Alice Hughes, from personal collection

Constance Mary Knowles, c. 1900. Photo: Keturah Collins, from https://www.photohistory-sussex.co.uk/BTNCollingsAE&K.htm

Major General Sir Charles Knowles c. 1897 Photo: Kassar, Malta. From the Navy and Army Illustrated, 1897

After retiring, Knowles was knighted in 1903, serving as colonel of the Royal Hampshire Regiment from 1908-24, and Constance became a prominent member of the British Red Cross Society.

The Auberge d’Aragon, the official residence of Esme Elliott’s family in Valletta, now houses the Ministry of Justice. On my recent trip to Malta, I was delighted to be given a tour of the ancient building by ministry staff. Sadly, Esme’s diary doesn’t tell us much about the ‘house’ itself, but maybe the central courtyard was its outside space, as Esme mentions gardening and sitting on the “pattio” [sic].

The Auberge d’Aragon, Valletta, in 2023. Photo: Valerie Smith

While the 1894 diary entries cover a full calendar year, Malta features only until April, before we come back to it much later. Esme’s early days are full of shopping, lunches, drives out and “at homes”, attending St Paul’s Cathedral and the Garrison Chapel, the Manoel Theatre, and the Opera (20 times in 1894), and having Swedish, Italian, mandolin and dance lessons.

She visits the Barrakka Gardens, Sa Maison, Floriana, Sliema, Vittoriosa, the Sliema Club and the Ditch, all places for affluent Victorians to see and be seen. With and without her mother, Esme regularly accompanies her stepfather (“the General”) on his official duties at the Governor’s Palace and elsewhere, which she finds thoroughly enthralling for the striking young men in their colourful uniforms.

January 1894 is a busy time for military activity. Trooping the colour at Floriana takes place on January 4. On January 9, there’s a lavish dance, until the general takes Esme home early, ready for his inspection of six regiments the following day. When the Governor of Malta, Sir Arthur Fremantle, is received and sworn in by the general at the Palace a few days later, young Esme gets to watch the proceedings.

She writes: “All the colonels were there and generals, etc. It was in the ballroom. Maltese allowed in to see it. We were in the gallery. There was a guard of honour outside who forgot to present arms. Some men have been tried for murder and have penal servitude only.” On a lighter note, Esme goes to the Palace to watch people from the gallery of the ballroom, and see the Queen’s Christmas tree.

On January 17, the governor (“in state”) attends a performance of Aida at the Opera House, with the British national anthem. Guard-mounting follows the next day, avidly watched by young Esme. While her mother goes to the governor’s reception, the general that evening spoils Esme’s fun by refusing to go again to the opera.

In early February, Esme watches a polo match at Marsa, where the Glosters regimental band play, then the governor and brigades come back to dine at the Auberge with other notable military names – Captains Biancardi, Scot, Ewart and Maxse, Walter Congrieve and Major Duff are among the visitors to the Knowles household. (On September 16, 2018, The Sunday Times of Malta ran an article including a Richard Ellis image of many people Esme writes about in her diary.)

February brings Carnival time, with processions, feasting and dance aplenty. Esme’s mother dons a fancy dress costume as a glamorous Madame Polichinelle.

The anniversary of the Shipwreck of St Paul on February 10, 1894, is a red-letter day for young Esme. She meets for the first time the general’s aide-de-camp, Francis Jearrad Bowker (1869-1916), who according to Esme, is “a nice young man, very” and she is clearly taken with him.

Esme’s 1894 diary seems to recount one long, heady whirl of activity, clearly worlds away in time and class

Francis Bowker. Photographer and date unknown, with kind permission of Harrow School https://www.harrowschool-ww1.org.uk/DOCS/BOWKER_FJ.pdf

Esme’s February entries have moments of military manoeuvres at Marsa, including the Rifles, Camerons, North Staffs, E Surrey and the 27th Company. She meanwhile amuses herself, shopping for gifts at Manchester House, spectating at polo matches, operas, race-going, dancing and avoiding the effects of the gregale.

The ‘ladies’ of the regiments organise a picnic at Fort Verdala and a tea party on board ships HMS Howe and Surprise in the Grand Harbour, and naval Captain Edward Price gives a lantern slide talk on ‘Arctic discovery’ at the Lyceum. Sandwiched between an “awfully jolly” trip to the races and a night at the opera (Faust) encountering the entrancing Bowker, we can assume that Esme’s silence on the lecture is self-explanatory.

In early March, Esme sees the football final (“N Staf won against 27th Company”).

On the 17th, she has a long day at Mtarfa Barracks with her mother, the general and Bowker. She “arrived frozen. Had hot coffee in the mess. Went to headquarters. Drove to Dwejra Lines. The Gov was there saw the enemy advances, went to near Binjemma [sic] & saw the wind-up of the fight. Went & had lunch near DV lines. Got back at 7 o’clock.” The next day, Esme meets Prince Louis of Battenburg and they go to Pembroke Fort to watch the manoeuvres.

Easter 1894 brings church decorations, gardens visits and a children’s party at the Palace, with lantern shows and Punch and Judy. The Glosters bicentenary ball is one of many dances taking place in March but in early April, the gregale storms cause disruption. Significantly, Esme records having her “photo done” on April 5. My hunch that Richard Ellis took it is correct. The actual image may sadly be lost; the quest continues.

The first couple of weeks of April has the Governors Brigade Parade of six regiments, the Soldiers Exhibition and Tableaux. We hear who wins the boat race (the Glosters) and there is more guard mounting before Esme has to say her goodbyes on the 14th.

Why? She’s off on the SS Britannia to England, where she returns to school in Windsor, and April to November 1894 is another fascinating episode in her narrative.

When in England, Esme receives many letters and parcels from her family and friends in Malta, including The Malta Chronicle, and pictures from the earlier photo shoot. She returns on December 15 for Christmas celebrations, a New Year’s Eve inspection of the Camerons and a service at St John’s.

Esme’s 1894 diary seems to an outsider to recount one long, heady whirl of activity, clearly worlds away in time and class. This private journal, with its tales of a privileged, excitable, even ‘frothy’ young lady is peppered with utterances of “great fun” and “lovely”.

But her record tells the story of a teenager who will later blossom into a dedicated and capable woman, coping admirably through the London Blitz with resolve and compassion. She retains deep affection for her early Malta life and concern for its people, and we will hear of it and them again in her future years.

If you want to know more about Esme shortly after Malta, there are clues in her 1897 Egypt diary. I am also researching a number of her family letters to fill in some gaps. In addition to Malta and Egypt, the action in my diary and letter collection happens in London, Devon, France and beyond, but that is another matter. I am sharing daily extracts from all the years on my Facebook page ‘Addicted to Diaries’ and plan to write a book about my diary journey one day.

Acknowledgements

My thanks to Ray Cachia Zammit and Joe Grech for the concept and encouragement of this article; the staff of the Ministry of Justice, Valletta, for showing me where Esme Elliott lived; and numerous Facebook members for their continuing contributions, enthusiasm and support in bringing her diary to life.