I’ve never been able to grasp ‘tasting notes’ – those elusive flavours coffee connoisseurs speak of. My early coffee experiences were, like many, dominated by instant brews.

So, when I was recently invited to a coffee cupping (aka tasting) session at Busy Bee’s head office in Mrieħel, my lack of refinement was laid bare. I could only describe their flavours in terms like ‘bacon’ and ‘burnt tyres’ – responses that didn’t win me any approving nods. Little wonder I stick to cappuccinos. 

Busy Bee’s signature speciality coffee. Photo: Busy Bee

But while I may be clueless about coffee subtleties, Malta is seeing a growing community of people becoming increasingly sophisticated in their coffee choices. 

Giuseppe Pisanelli, Busy Bee’s operations manager, says: “People are becoming more conscious about what goes into their cups, the method of coffee extraction and where it comes from.”

Giuseppe Pisanelli, Busy Bee’s operations manager

A long history of coffee in Malta

Malta’s love affair with coffee goes back a long way. Introduced to the islands by Turkish slaves in the 1600s, it quickly became popular among both the Knights of St John and wealthy Maltese families. By the mid-18th century, 24 coffee shops were already operating in Valletta alone, with others scattered mostly around the Grand Harbour area and the Three Cities. 

Then came the British in the early 19th century, and with them, tea. But while the British military and their families consumed tea, the Maltese preferred coffee. Part of this, it seems, came down to economics: a pound of tea cost two shillings and five pence in 1824, while coffee was cheaper, at one shilling and 10 pence. And of course, there was passion – coffee was already deeply rooted in the local culture. 

One coffee shop that has witnessed much of this history is Caffe Cordina, which opened in Cospicua in 1837. It would be another 107 years before it moved to its current home in Valletta’s Republic Street, where the Café dell’ Commercio formerly stood. Cordina is now part of the European Historic Cafés Association, sharing Republic Square with what was once the Café de la Reine.

The latter eventually became Café Premier, closing in 2014 and later transforming into the local council office. 

The early 20th century saw a surge in new coffee shops, some of which still operate today. Gambrinus opened in 1919, the Museum Café in 1921, Busy Bee in 1933 and Elia Café in 1953. These establishments set the stage for Malta’s coffee culture as we know it today. 

Enter the coffee giants 

Since the turn of the millennium, Malta has seen an explosion of new coffee shops, including the arrival of two industry titans: Costa Coffee and Starbucks. Costa, operated locally by Corinthia Hotels, came first, opening its first Maltese outlet in July 2012, at Malta International Airport. 

Costa Coffee operates 15 outlets in Malta. Photo: Terence Mirabelli

“The culture around coffee was quite different back then,” recalls former Costa Coffee Malta CEO Christina Galea. “When you ordered a coffee, you didn’t have this massive menu [you have now]. You ordered an espresso, a cappuccino or an americano. That’s it.”

Former Costa Coffee Malta CEO Christina Galea says Costa was the first chain to bring a different dimension to coffee. Photo: Costa Coffee

But Costa changed all that, introducing a more diverse range of drinks. Galea notes that it took some time for the new coffee culture to take hold, but young Maltese who had travelled and were familiar with brands like Costa and Starbucks adapted quickly.  Today, Costa operates 14 shops across Malta and Goza, with a clientele split between students and professionals aged 25-45.

If it’s not the Mocha Italia blend it’s not a Costa Coffee. Photo: Costa Coffee

Older people are not so brand loyal and are more traditional with their preferences. 

“In the first few years [older] people would constantly complain the coffee ‘is too big ... I just want a small, normal cappuccino’, which is what they were used to – a few sips and you’re done. But that’s not the international standard. The older generation found it difficult to adapt, I think, to the style of Costa,” Galea says. 

Sun drying arabica beans in the Rwandan sun. Photo: Starbucks

If seniors found it difficult to navigate Costa’s coffee menu, they would flounder with Starbucks, which made its debut in June 2019, opening its first outlet at the Valletta Waterfront. With its expansive menu – boasting of more than 170,000 possible combinations – Starbucks caters mostly to a younger demographic.

The customers of their 18 stores, operated locally by DB Group, enjoy the customisation options, says Malcolm Saliba, Starbuck Malta’s director of operations. 

Malcolm Saliba pitching in for the 2023 coffee harvest. Photo: Starbucks

“We have people that ask for a latte – two shots of espresso with frothed milk – with added vanilla syrup, an extra shot of blonde coffee topped with whipped cream and cinnamon powder”. There’s also been an increasing demand for healthy options, like plant-based milk. 

Both brands import their beans from their respective international roasteries – Costa from London and Starbucks from Amsterdam. Meanwhile, local coffee lovers who crave a more artisanal touch have plenty of homegrown options. 

Rwandan arabica beans being harvested for its Reserve store. Photo: Starbucks

The rise of specialty coffee

One such local player is Lot61, a speciality coffee roastery founded by Clayton Xuereb. Twice a week, Xuereb and his team roast 500 kilograms of coffee beans at their plant in Burmarrad, distributing their brews to its two coffee shops and 45 other outlets across Malta. 

Clayton Xuereb, founder of Lot61

Lot61 roasts about 500kgs of coffee beans a week

“Maltese clients appreciate that we roast our coffee here and have flocked to our shop,” says Xuereb, who is already seeking EU funding to expand his roastery. He says his shops located in Valletta and St Julian’s attract a loyal following of locals aged 20 to 50.

Lot61 has two coffee shops, in Valletta and St Julian’s. Photo: Terence Mirabelli

Another key player in Malta’s specialty coffee scene is Seven Beans Coffee Roasters, which sells its coffee through its “community” of 10 Coffee Circus shops and online. Specialty coffee is the highest grade of coffee, scoring 80 points or more on a 100-point scale used by the Specialty Coffee Association. Typically, of the arabica variety, this coffee is grown at higher altitudes than robusta, has a lower caffeine content and is less bitter.

Busy Bee, too, has embraced specialty coffee, offering a bespoke blend of beans from Brazil, Peru, and Honduras. Pisanelli was keen to focus on local tastes. 

“In Malta, people are used to the Italian coffee way, which is predominantly robust and which is perceived as being a strong coffee,” he explains. 

The company’s espresso blend is 100% arabica, a key requirement for specialty coffee. It’s also recently launched a lavender coffee.

The new face of Malta’s coffee scene      

Today, coffee shops in Malta offer much more than a quick caffeine fix. They’ve become places to meet, socialise, work, and even conduct job interviews. Starbucks calls its stores ‘third places’ – spots where people gather that aren’t home or work – and this has become true for many cafés in Malta.

Busy Bee operates four coffee shops and one gelateria. PHOTO: Busy Bee

Despite all this change, traditional village cafés still hold their own. Mosta Bar, for instance, owned and run by Omarya Bezzina, continues to cater to elderly men who enjoy a simple glass of coffee and a chat with friends. 

Her customers “wouldn’t dream” of going to Costa, despite the nearest one being 100 metres away. And at 50 cents per glass of coffee, why would they?  “Our only competition is the każin (band club),” she says. 

From high-end speciality roasts to budget-friendly village cafés, Malta’s coffee scene is as diverse as ever. Whether you’re sipping a nitro cold brew or enjoying a no-frills cup, the island’s storied coffee culture shows no signs of slowing down.