‘I’m getting older’: 11-year-olds are turning to anti-ageing skincare

When a family friend asked an 11-year-old what she wanted for a gift, her answer was clear: “I’m getting older, so I’m into skincare now.” She even named the branded face cream topping her wish list.

Meanwhile, a 12-year-old used all her spending money on a sports trip to Sicily at Sephora, splurging on what her mother called “grown-up, expensive stuff”.

Their interest in skincare is part of a growing trend targeting young girls worldwide, with Malta no exception.

Dermatologists say they are seeing more pre-teens and teenagers using products aimed at older age groups, including anti-ageing serums and exfoliants that contain harsh ingredients.

“There is a trend, even in Malta, of young girls using products too early,” said Lawrence Scerri, chairperson of the Maltese Association of Dermatology and Venereology.

“Using anything with complex ingredients, such as anti-ageing components, is inappropriate at that age.”

Various dermatologists agreed, adding that children often mention brands like Sol de Janeiro, Byoma, Bubble, as well as others sold by beauty retailer Sephora.

Twelve-year-old Gwen Gravina, who runs the popular foodie Facebook and Instagram accounts Gwen’s Cooking Club, said she had noticed this shift on social media.

“I do get a lot of adverts directed at me about skincare. I know many girls who use a lot of skincare with some even saying they use them for anti-ageing. But not in my close circle of friends,” she says.

While she does use a simple moisturiser and keeps her skin clean, she adds: “I’m not really into skincare. I know that the skin of girls my age has not started the ageing process, which means these adverts are just about marketing.”

Medical professionals agree. A recent study published in the American journal Pediatrics analysed skincare videos on TikTok featuring girls as young as seven demonstrating multistep skincare routines.

At that age, their skin may still be very sensitive and changing

The study found these videos promoted products containing an average of 11 potentially irritating active ingredients. These included citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid – chemical exfoliants commonly associated with anti-ageing treatments.

The study concluded that these skincare routines, as portrayed on TikTok, are costly, often omit sunscreen and frequently involve ingredients that pose a risk of irritation, allergic contact dermatitis and sun sensitivity. They offer little to no benefit for the young population they appear to target, it concluded.

Scerri emphasised that while raising awareness about skin health is important, the most effective skincare for children is simple: avoid sun exposure and use sunscreen.

“There is a lot of pressure on them – driven by social media and aggressive advertising – that is making these youngsters stressed and anxious about their self-image,” he said.

Dermatologist Monique Cachia agreed, saying she has also seen girls as young as eight asking to use skincare products they don’t need. 

“They want to use serums, creams, masks and scrubs from highly influential brands as seen on social media. Unfortunately, some products from the range will have acids, other exfoliants or ingredients that they do not need and can cause more harm – especially because, at that age, their skin may still be very sensitive and changing. So, it’s important to help them understand that not all products are good for you.”

“I had an 11- to 12-year-old using too many rich moisturisers and serums and she had oily skin and comedonal acne – so that wasn’t helping for sure,” she said.

She added that, when it comes to skincare needs, children do not have many. Young children with no skin problems can use a gentle face wash, if they wish to, apart from sunscreen. In the case of teens with problematic skin, like dry skin or acne, they may need products to target their current agreed.