Malta enjoys the comfort of blaming the war for the loss of many of its early landmarks. Gozo can hide behind no such excuses. World War II spared Gozo the relentless devastation it inflicted on Malta. What harm the natural and man-made environment of Gozo suffered either lies at the door of nature itself, or, more frequently, wears the badge of man’s insensitivity, greed or triumphal ignorance.
Things started on a squalid note in 1835, after the unique Xagħra Circle was excavated on private land. The authorities offered to purchase the site but the owner wanted more. To prove who was boss, he armed himself with a sledgehammer and systematically smashed all the enormous megaliths – he believed his to be a cunning answer to a tight-fisted government.
A number of Hospitaller fortifications met similar fates. The 1605 Torre Garza, in Mġarr, designed by Vittorio Cassar, was pulled down in the 19th century and a hotel now occupies its footprint. And, in 1915, the army demolished the 1720s Qbajjar tal-Qortin fortress, Marsalforn, to make way for a temporary wireless station, decommissioned just four years later.
To construct a makeshift airstrip for the invasion of Sicily, the American war machine in 1943 dismantled stone by numbered stone the historic 1690 Palazzo Gourgion, near Xewkija, and paid for its later rebuilding. Fast to vanish, never to reappear.
And, when, in 1933, the Don Bosco Oratory, in Victoria, became reality, no better site was identified but to build it over the enigmatic and exceptional medieval ‘Templars’ cemetery, which had survived centuries.
Similarly, Xewkija parish church, one of the major showpieces of the bravura of baroque scalpellini, in the 1950s gave way to an insipid duplicate of a Venetian basilica.