Maltese fashion house breaks through abroad

The international doors have finally opened for a Maltese fashion house, marking a major breakthrough.

Fashion label Beatrix, by Charles and Ron, could be selling collections in Italy in the near future following the designer duo's recent successful participation in an international weddings and evening wear fair in Milan.

"It is now up to us," said Charles and Ron, whose Birkirkara atelier is successfully seeking broader horizons.

At Bouquet, the annual bridal and evening wear Milan fair, the Beatrix label was approached by about four companies that produce collections for other designers and expressed interest in producing theirs.

An Italian company has already been identified to produce the sample collection of the Beatrix designs and establish contacts with agents, who, in turn, would distribute the range around Italy and even beyond, Ron, the business mind behind the label, explained.

"It is a whole network and we are learning the ropes of the complicated industry and all its ins and outs," he said. "Attending the fair was a great experience and gave us a push. We returned from Milan more confident.

"The whole thing just landed on our plate and we cannot say it is not scary but we plan to go ahead with all this. It involves an investment - to pay for the sample collection - and a risk, taking the business to another level. But why not?"

The trend is for Maltese brides-to-be to travel abroad to buy their wedding dresses but soon they may find themselves choosing between Maltese designs from shops in Italy.

In fact, in a separate venture, eight styles of Beatrix bridal wear have already been sold to a store in Milan's most exclusive shopping area, Via Monte Napoleone, and other outlets in other areas.

One of the designs has been priced at €3,800, said a proud Charles, kicking himself in jest for the profit the shop owner will pocket.

Beatrix will also have a representative in Rome to control the Italian market it is breaking into.

The next step is Naples in October to participate once again in the Moda in Gallaria fashion show. The event had marked a turning point in the designer duo's career when they attended it for the first time last year. It was their first international taste and it went down well, with important contacts established and encouraging feedback received, getting the ball rolling into the international sphere.

Charles and Ron capitalised on the exposure in their own modest manner and have come a long way since.

At this year's Moda in Gallaria, they are presenting their autumn/winter 2004/5 collection, a sneak preview of which unveils mostly silks, in brights colours, including raspberry and burnt oranges, using metres and metres of fabrics - their trademark - from Cyprus, sporting 1920s and 1970s patterns and styles.

They are taking up to Naples their couture evening collection 2004/5 and the designs of their 2005 bridal wear that is to be produced in the factory they are visiting during their stay.

"We should be having meetings with the producers of the collection to discuss the designs and the fabrics with them. It is not as simple as just presenting them with our drawings on paper. They need to be commercialised," Ron explained.

Beatrix was invited to take part in Bouquet by an Italian company, which expressed an interest in representing and promoting the label after it saw the creations of Charles and Ron.

Their inspired minds burst into full swing and their sewing machines and scissors worked overtime to produce 15 wedding and 10 evening dresses and they took full advantage of their one-off opportunity of exposure to the outside world.

At Bouquet, Beatrix enjoyed a 45-square-metre stand in a prime position, with another 34 Italian exhibitors - mostly established companies, with their own factories and designs, even producing for big names.

"We were practically the only foreigners around," they said of what was, initially, a daunting experience.

At the Bouquet fair, Beatrix received positive feedback from fashion editors and stood out for being "different". Their designs were described by fashion experts as being "on the right track" and offering "a fresh, new look" - a move away from the stagnation of some Italian labels, said its PR Adrian Gatt.

Magazines such as Collezione Sposa, Sposa and White also expressed an interest in using pieces from their collections in upcoming photo shoots.

It has been suggested by the potential collection producers that the label be called Charles & Ron to build on the image of the couple - Malta's answer to Dolce and Gabbana.

The duo is a good team - Charles being the creative arm, who shies away from the business side and has an innate flair for fabrics. Clients have said they could walk out of his atelier and straight to the party with the material just draped on them, cut and pinned around their bodies - such is his knack.

It is going to be an even busier summer for the designers, who have committed themselves to create the collection for the Italian company. But they are determined to capitalise on the opportunity and face the challenges ahead.

Meanwhile, they must also keep their local clients - whom they hold in high esteem - satisfied and continue to dress some of the most elegant brides, bridesmaids and guests at weddings and parties.