The many faces of Valletta

Valletta - our capital city and the principal centre for administration, culture and business, and also a residential area. Built on the rugged Mount Sceberras, the city controls both the Marsamxett Harbour and the Grand Harbour by virtue of its height and position.

The Knights of St John chose the site for their new capital. They embellished it with a complex system of fortifications and numerous architectural and artistic gems. In 1980 the site was bestowed the honour of a "World Heritage City" by Unesco.

Since the departure of the Knights in 1798, Valletta has undergone various transformations, including projects during the British rule and heavy damage during World War Two. Many areas were abandoned during and after the war and in the 1960s, leading to decay in most areas. Valletta mayor Dr Paul Borg Olivier noted that this led to the loss of much of Valletta's residential element and an increase in its commercial role.

Past approaches to urban renewal often led to a further decimation of the city's original fabric. However, the past decade has seen fresh approaches which have resulted in visible improvements in the city. Further work is being carried out in this regard.

The fortress capital has become a desirable residential location and is sought after by people from all walks of life, including foreign clients. Recent years have also seen renewed efforts to regenerate and market the city. Work is being carried out by various agencies, including Valletta council, the Valletta Rehabilitation Committee and private agencies.

One such private body is CityPro, an estate agency that deals exclusively with Valletta. The agency's mission statement is to become a major stakeholder in Valletta's regeneration by not only being a real estate agency, but also by participating in the cultural and social initiatives taken by other stakeholders.

The philosophy behind the agency is that Valletta is a unique gem which has different, intertwining facets. Managing director Edgar Mifsud and marketing manager John Mallia believe in selling not just a property, but Valletta as a whole. They believe that Valletta deserves a collective effort which will benefit not only the city and its residents, but everyone somehow connected with the city.

They are not alone in viewing Valletta as a whole. When the Planning Authority (now MEPA) was set up in 1992, the harbour area was immediately marked as a critical area and a structured policy plan was implemented. Dr Borg Olivier and Valletta Rehabilitation Committee (VRC) chairman Dr Ray Bondin are fully aware of Valletta's various faces and the challenges they pose.

Dr Borg Olivier said that the World Heritage City status is a very prestigious honour. Few entire cities have been given the title, for example, Venice and its lagoon have been accorded this status, but in Rome, only the historic centre qualified for the award.

With reference to Venice, Dr Borg Olivier said "many cultured tourists and new residents I speak to find a lot of similarities between Valletta and Venice, in character and in feeling." Valletta's character is indeed unique. Dr Borg Olivier said that EU Enlargement Commissioner Günther Verheugen recently noted that Valletta is one of the most beautiful European cities.

However, to keep its World Heritage City status, Valletta needs to be conserved and projects in this regard need to be ongoing. Moreover, the Baroque character must be preserved. However, as the mayor himself noted, this does not mean that we cannot strike a balance between the new and the old. "For example, better use of roofs can be made while still respecting the skyline, large communal roofs can be turned into community spaces," Dr Borg Olivier said.

Dr Borg Olivier also believes that the city is being regenerated, noting that significant improvements have been made in the past decade, including an increasing influx of residents. Valletta is also attracting artists and musicians, including Sir Cameron Mackintosh and David Gill. The mayor believes that Valletta's feeling and beauty make it a natural choice for international artists. The city's commercial centre is also attracting more interest and investment.

The city's nightlife has also changed. As Dr Borg Olivier noted, Valletta rests at night. However, there is an increasing number of restaurants and other places of entertainment which are staying open in the evening. One also cannot forget the Manoel Theatre and St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity, which also contribute to injecting new life into Valletta, both during the day and in the evening.

In some respects, Valletta may be fast becoming an exclusive place. However, there are still affordable properties on the market. Prospective buyers have the chance to buy a piece of history in a World Heritage site. As Dr Borg Olivier noted, "this is what should really make people move into the city as a residence."

The city is not without its problems. One of the greatest problems is that of accessibility. Lack of parking spaces and traffic congestion often discourage people. However, steps are being taken to try and remedy the problem.

The government has approved a park and ride scheme. Coupled with a new parking space outside the city, this should help ease the congestion problem. Plans are also in the pipeline for a ferry service between Sliema and Valletta. This would remove the need to use a private car when travelling between Valletta and Sliema, thus easing congestion.

Problems also exist in terms of infrastructure. Dr Borg Olivier noted that the council cannot be expected to carry out infrastructure works on its own. Most of the council's budget goes towards cleaning, and more money is needed for the upkeep of pavements, buildings and other projects.

This raises an interesting question. Valletta is the capital city. It is not just the residents who have a connection with Valletta. The administrative and commercial agencies, together with the general public, all somehow have a stake in Valletta. The responsibilities required by a World Heritage site should not be borne by Valletta alone, but by the nation as a whole.

Much work also remains to be done in the regeneration and conservation sectors. Dr Ray Bondin notes that the demand for property is indeed a good sign for regeneration, saying that this "tackles the problems of abandoned buildings, which can contribute towards a bad image of Valletta." He also notes that it is a positive sign that young professionals are attracted by property in Valletta.

The VRC wants to improve Valletta's environment, upgrade its gardens, improve the general infrastrcture and regenerate the city extensively but in a sustainable way. Unfortunately, the committee is also hampered by a lack of funds. Most of the money is used for the restoration of buildings.

Fortunately, many derelict buildings in Valletta have been successfully rehabilitated. The government has registered all abandoned houses, in order to see how many vacant houses there are and why. Property with unknown owners can now be administered by the government, thus helping towards regeneration and better use of space.

There are also ongoing efforts to preserve and restore wooden balconies. Unfortunately, over the years, many were destroyed and replaced with unsightly aluminium creations. Needless to say, these do not form part of Valletta's character and clash horribly with the city's Baroque character. It is now illegal to destroy wooden balconies and replace them with alumium ones.

There is also a scheme for present owners of aluminium balconies to replace them with wooden ones. The scheme also applies for those who wish to restore existing wooden balconies. In this way, owners benefit from expertise and money grants and have the opportunity to contribute towards Valletta's embellishment.

Besides private interest in buildings for commercial and residential purposes, large-scale projects are also being carried out. For example, the VRC is overseeing work in the former Jewish quarter behind the Auberge de Bavière.

The area contains sub-standard houses which will be restored and regenerated. The local council and the VRC are firmly against the destruction of buildings and Valletta's Baroque character. Both are committed to preserving what makes the city unique.

Both residents and non-residents expect more of Valletta. On the other hand, Dr Bondin notes that contractors are apt to charge a higher fee for working in Valletta.

This is mostly because work carried out within the city is more complex, requires more detailed attention and often takes longer than normal. Conservation and restoration are by no means easy - for example, the hardstone steps at the lower end of St Ursula Street were restored by using material discarded from other sites.

Fortunately, recent years have seen a commitment towards the preservation of heritage by various agencies, not just MEPA, the council and the VRC. Agencies like CityPro and Viset plc, who are involved with the Waterfront project, are also working towards Valletta's regeneration and upkeep.

The VRC works in close collaboration with MEPA, and acts as consultant to the agency. Together, they work towards the protection and embellishment of Valletta. "Unfortunately, we are backward on enforcements," Dr Bondin said.

MEPA and the VRC have also carried out the laborious task of identifying illegal air-conditioning units. The number totals a staggering 300 units, protruding from façades and often destroying original stonework in order to install the units.

Residents and visitors also cannot help overlook the myriad of unsightly wires on most façades. This problem is still being tackled. It is not a question of simply removing wires. It is necessary to remove wires without causing further damage to buildings. Finding a viable alternative is a project on its own, which requires considerable investment in terms of time and money. Works have already started, and the project is ongoing.

Dr Bondin noted that although there is a strong sense of collaboration between various entities, problems still exist. For example, some elements in the commercial sector have been over-enthusiastic in their drive to embellish their shop-fronts, often leading to serious damage to the building's original façade and the loss of the traditional fronts.

Dr Bondin also noted that the street lighting system is very old and is in need of replacement. Again, this is not a question of simply changing lighting. This problem is a project on its own, requiring expert advice and a considerable financial investment.

The same can be said for sewage tunnels. Valletta has an intricate system of tunnel engineering built by the Knights of St John. This system is suffering from a lack of maintenance and is in urgent need of restoration.

Valletta is also known for its various cultural sites, a feature which attracts numerous local and foreign visitors. The National Museums of Archaeology and Fine Arts are located at the heart of the city, along with numerous other gems.

However, as Dr Bondin noted, there are various other sites that can easily be marketed, including numerous small churches which are not open to the public. "We have to enlarge what Valletta offers and exploit its potential," he said.

"One simple measure is to use the World Heritage Site logo on advertising and correspondence material," Dr Bondin said. This would help increase awareness. In fact, awareness will go a long way towards contributing for a better Valletta.

Valletta has captured the imagination and fascination of various visitors throughout history. In 1844, William Thackeray reached Valletta and described the harbour's entrance "as one of the most stately and agreeable scenes ever admired by the seasick traveller." And with reference to the city itself, he said: "Nor does it disappoint you on a closer inspection, as many a foreign town does." He found a lively, throbbing city, and was impressed by the various architectural and historical gems.

Today, the visitor to Valletta is walking into a World Heritage City, a city that forms an inextricable part of our history. It is an integral part of our proud heritage, a heritage that needs to be conserved not only for us but also for future generations.