As Malta’s wine harvest comes to an early close, the island’s most awarded winemaker has raised concerns about the future of the industry, warning that climate change could lead to both reduced wine production and higher prices.
The Delicata family, renowned for their contributions to Maltese viniculture since 1907, has observed alarming changes in the local climate.
George Delicata, the company’s director, and his son, Matthew have noted a significant decline in rainfall, which is posing serious challenges for local winemakers.
“This year, our production dropped by 40 per cent,” Delicata stated, “which means our wines will now be released as limited editions.”
They warn that Malta’s lack of rainfall is pushing the country towards a desert-like climate. According to National Geographic, a place receiving less than 25 centimetres of rain annually is considered a desert. This year, Malta received below that amount, Delicata explained.
The Malta Meteorological Office confirmed that the total rainfall from September 2023 to the end of August 2024 was 24.98 centimetres.
A spokesperson for the Met Office said: “While a desert is officially described as ‘an area with annual precipitation less than 250mm’ this statement must be true for a long-term period for an area to be classified as a desert.”
Climate change, however, is not the only issue threatening the industry. Delicata also highlighted the difficulties posed by land use in Malta. “One of the major problems is that those who want to work in viniculture often don’t have access to land while those who do own agricultural land aren’t using it,” he said.
He said all arable land in Malta should be productive, emphasising that government-owned land designated for farming should be handed over to those willing to use it effectively.
“Why should they keep it if there’s an industry crying out for it,” Delicata asked, underscoring the need for more proactive policies to support the sector. The family argues that viniculture could thrive locally, requiring an area equivalent to Valletta, and notes that vines not only contribute to soil stability but are also aesthetically pleasing.
The Delicatas want the Maltese government to develop a comprehensive plan tailored to Malta’s unique conditions rather than adopting an EU-style one-size-fits-all approach.
“We can’t have a one-size-fits-all policy,” Delicata emphasised, pointing out that the Irish market, with its 80 inches of rain annually, faces challenges that are vastly different from those in Malta.
As the next generation prepares to take over the business, they approach the future with caution. “I want to leave the business in a better place than when I got it,” Delicata senior said, while Matthew Delicata expressed concern about the industry’s future without clear solutions in place.
The Delicatas want the Maltese government to develop a comprehensive plan for Malta’s wine industry. Photo: Matthew Mirabelli