While many will remember the summer for its stifling heat and roasting temperatures, the island’s largest winery will look back at the summer joyfully for producing the best red grape varieties.
Standing in the vine fields of Burmarrad a day before the cabernet grape harvest kicked off, Marsovin owner Jeremy Cassar looked at the bunches of grapes bursting with flavour, ready to be picked.
The harvest season is long, starting in July and ending early October. The cabernet is the last grape to be harvested.
“We have certainly experienced a great year when it comes to the red grape varieties,” he said.
As he handled the grapes, Cassar noted that the last time the winery produced such high-quality cabernet grapes was in 2007, over two decades ago. “We are at the mercy of nature, so to see such perfect, high-quality grapes is a wonderful surprise and a great reward,” he told Times of Malta.
The vineyards in Burmarrad, ready to be harvested.Cassar dived deep into the science behind what makes the perfect red grape variety. He explained how heat stress helps the reds develop the right balance of sugars, which gives the wine the perfect body and structure.
“The fact that we did not have too many heatwaves and humidity controlled any potential illnesses that might have cropped up,” he explained. Since the warm temperatures remained constant throughout the summer, the grapes underwent an ‘excellent’ maturation period.
“The quality of the grapes and the way they have matured present the grapes in a healthy manner. The level of quality we are experiencing is perfect.”
Wine lovers will have to wait a while before they can have a taste of these perfect grapes as it will take another two years to age, produce and bottle.
“It wasn’t a perfect year as we didn’t get enough rainfall, which can also stress red grapes. However, this stress contributed to better grape quality.”
Of course, warmer and drier temperatures also had their downfall for the winery.
“We usually harvest around 1,000 tons of grapes but we are down by 25 per cent,” he noted. “This means less Maltese grapes, so less Maltese wines.”
On the other hand, white grapes suffered slightly due to the hot temperatures.
Cassar said that white grapes usually prefer cooler climates. He noted how, due to the hot temperatures, the white grapes harvest took place earlier this year. The result of an earlier harvest means the white wines will have a slightly lower alcohol value.
“I wouldn’t say it is the best year for whites but it is still a good year,” he said. “I always try to look at the glass half full and note that the quality is up and this year has been excellent for reds.”
While it was an unbearable summer for most, the red grape varieties benefitted from the intense heat.Agricultural land
While wine grape producers are at the mercy of nature, Cassar said another challenge wineries face is the lack of agricultural land.
Although Marsovin harvests its grapes from its privately owned estates, it also relies on the 200 contracted Maltese and Gozitan farmers who also harvest grapes for the winemakers.
An issue brought up year after year and by other winemakers, Cassar said there need to be more opportunities for young farmers to use government-owned land that is tied up in “the wrong hands”.
“We are facing an issue where we have an ageing population of farmers and young farmers who wish to do more but do not have access to the land,” he said.
Without good source material, you cannot produce a good Maltese wine
“The government is aware of this issue. We have reached a boiling point, and if the situation isn’t resolved, our agricultural sector will be unrecognisable in the next 10 years.”
In recent years, more locals and foreigners have grown to appreciate Maltese wine, another pushing factor, he argues, to protect the industry.
“Without good source material, you cannot produce a good Maltese wine… It would be a pity if the government does nothing to help the industry survive and to ensure more successful harvests which result in good Maltese products.”