Malta has come a long way from “lifesaving” kerosene wagons, ‘shoats’ roaming the streets and stray dogs howling at 6pm to the peal of church bells. But a group of former teachers from the UK, who taught in the British Forces schools in the 1970s, say the country has not lost its magic 50 years later. 

Around 25 former teachers recently visited Malta for a reunion and to relive old times.

One of them, Tom Jordan said many had never returned to the “beloved country” since the military schools closed in 1978 but still considered Malta “our home”. 

Now in their 70s and 80s, they still share a love of the island and its people.

Jordan and his wife lived in Old Railway Track, Santa Venera, at the time. He has great memories of the warmth of the Maltese, who kindly welcomed them into their communities, both socially and also via the Catholic Church.

The recollections of the teachers paint a vivid picture of life in Malta half a century ago, and while many people complain about subsequent overdevelopment, the former teachers had mostly praise for the way the island had changed in the subsequent years.

Jordan reminisced about “long hot summer days, the kerosene wagons, a lifesaver in winter, swimming at Robb Lido and the Gozitan ladies knitting on their doorsteps”. 

He said he could write a book about how Malta has changed. “Back then, it was a very laid-back existence. Not now!”

Sliema and Buġibba had become thriving tourist centres, and their “21st-century fast-living lifestyle” was not necessarily for them anymore, he admitted.

Life did not get any better than this

Among the former teachers was Bernadine Ryan, who said Malta was her first overseas posting and, “until I left, I did not know life did not get any better than this”.

Like her colleagues, she loved every minute of her time in Malta – including the social life for the single girls.

“It was a whole new world, including cocktail parties on board Royal Navy ships,” Ryan recalled.

Appreciating the progress over the past 50 years, especially the air-conditioned buses, she noted that so much of the past and the history was still valued and maintained. 

“Coming back to Malta is like coming home – but even better. I will never tire of returning,” Ryan said, echoing her colleagues’ sentiments.

Susan Royds too spent her time in Malta “teaching and having a lot of fun”. Being able to plan and not have events rained off was another bonus, she said.

Hoping hotels would not cover the whole island, she said the increased roads were much smoother. 

“Most of what I loved and was homesick for is still there, but perhaps one has to look a bit harder.”

Malta was also the place where many couples formed and tied the knot. Reunion organisers Hugh and Christine Ritchie were teaching in different schools in the early 1970s. They met up and married shortly afterwards. 

Their fondest memories include the atmosphere of the island: “friendly, warm, colourful, plus the special connection with colleagues”.

The bond between fellow teachers – because they arrived and left the island at the same time – was part of the “Malta magic”.

Like the rest of the world, Malta has changed, they noted, with more traffic, more ugly, high-rise buildings and more tourists, which meant it could now be “any Mediterranean country”. 

But many changes were also beneficial, they maintained, including improved pavements and food.

Freedom in the sunshine

Kath Quinlan came to Malta in 1972 as a single girl to teach and left as a married woman in 1978, having met her husband, Peter during her time in the country. 

They married at the Phoenicia Hotel and have returned over the years with their two sons, watching the island develop into a major tourist area. 

“The quiet hustle and bustle of the 1970s has changed into a very busy and thriving island,” Rawcliffe said.

“But the Maltese people have not changed. Their kindness and friendliness always shine through.”

In December 1971, when Mike and Hazel Harland, who also met during their time in the country, were staying at the Calypso Hotel, they heard the British Forces were being withdrawn from Malta. 

“We caught the first ferry back the following morning and our packing cases arrived as we got to our flat. Within 10 days, we had packed our home and our schools, left our car in a field and flown back to the UK.” 

Following successful negotiations between the British and Maltese governments, the Harlands returned to Malta in 1972 when the schools were reopened.

Although they have come back several times since, they said this year was probably their last visit as they felt that country had become too busy.

Too many cars, traffic jams and parking nightmares meant they tried to visit towns and were unable to stop.

The land of bells and smells

Pamela Jacobsen recalls when Malta was still known as “the land of bells and smells”.

At precisely 6pm each evening, every dog on the island would take to the flat roof or balcony of their abode and howl in unison with the pealing bells, she recalled. This year, “we duly waited for the dogs to perform at 6pm, but alas, not one appeared. Nor did we encounter the tick-ridden brown hounds, placidly basking on pavements, quaysides and roads.”

Jacobsen also missed the once ubiquitous ‘shoats’ – a cross between a sheep and a goat – that used to wander through villages and were often observed bumping along in the back of an ancient car. These too have been replaced.

Malta’s “wonderful” old Bedford buses, with elaborate shrines next to the driver, were also missed and the new ones were “not half as much fun”, she joked.

She was sad to see the “wholesale neglect” of many traditional, balconied houses and villas – empty properties that could have been restored were just left to rot. Sliema, she observed, has completely lost its Maltese character and was going vertical, destined to resemble Hong Kong in the near future.

Gozo too was being overdeveloped, with much of the real estate either lying unfinished or empty, Jacobsen continued.

But she was pleased to note lampuki vans were still circulating, beach-cleaning groups were organised and the MSPCA was active. 

The teachers often wonder what those “sun-kissed ‘sprogs’ with peeling noses” they taught – now in their 50s – were up to.

“Hopefully, they remember something of those halcyon days in Malta, while their fathers served in the British forces. 

“It was a special time, and we were all extremely lucky to have that experience.”