Being someone who always shared an interest in fashion, I often pondered the question, “What shall I wear?” whenever I had a place to be. It didn’t matter if it was as simple as going to the coffee shop or for more important occasions like weddings or parties, the question would always pop up in my mind. It was a question which brought about happiness as I envisioned the look, the colours, and the emotions the outfit would evoke. It filled me with excitement and a tinge of worry, fearing that I wouldn’t find what I desired in local stores. While this concern may seem trivial to some, I found it to be of utmost importance. Very few could relate. To this day, I still ask the same question, yet what was once a mere question has come to be, dare I say, a moral dilemma.

Lucille Cachia

While I no longer share the fear of not finding what I am looking for in local shops thanks to e-commerce, I do harbour concerns regarding the working conditions of the individuals involved in producing the pieces I purchase, often enabled by the allure of cheap, fast, and convenient shopping practices. On the other hand, if I were to opt for local shopping, I would be perplexed by the exorbitant prices compared to the cheaper online alternatives offering the same item. What factors contribute to such extreme variations in clothing prices? At what true cost is a particular garment produced? Somewhere between these two extremes lies a realm of unspoken realities. The question that once brought me joy now presents challenges, leaving me with limited choices and lingering doubts. Is this not the result of exploitative labour practices? How genuine is the alternative presented? How can I ascertain the sustainability of what I am paying for?

The fashion industry contributes to 2% of the world’s GDP, with an estimated value of $3,000 billion (Fashion United, 2022). Along with substantial contribution comes a substantial worldwide impact. Ranking as one of the top polluters in the world, the clothing and textile industry contributes to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions (The Environmental Cost of Fashion, 2022). Environmental sustainability is not the only challenge the industry is facing. Social sustainability is another salient issue with women and children being exploited, producers of the raw materials not receiving fair prices, the ruining of natural resources and substantial generation of waste as one of the consequences of fast fashion. Organisational sustainability is another strain as businesses experience low margins in a fiercely competitive industry. In awareness of the impact of the fashion industry on environmental, social and governance (ESG), our fashion choices become a contributor to a much bigger cause.

Mitigating the impact and reversing the direction taken by fast fashion requires collective efforts from various stakeholders. Education, innovation and awareness play a crucial role in exploring and understanding sustainable efforts in the fashion industry however, it is not enough, as these words need to be turned into tangible action. It is also important to mention that in between theory and practice, stakeholders interested in implementing sustainable practices, can find numerous challenges. Sustainable and ethically made fashion often comes with higher price tags compared to fast fashion alternatives. This is due to the higher costs associated with sustainable materials, fair wages, and ethical production practices. Limited availability and higher production costs can make sustainable fashion less accessible to some consumers.

Policy-making and regulations play a significant role

Sustainable and ethical fashion brands may have limited physical store locations or availability in certain regions. This can make it challenging for consumers to access these brands and find the specific styles they desire. The variety and availability of sustainable options may also be limited compared to the fast fashion market. Some people associate sustainable fashion with a limited range of styles, perceiving it as less trendy or fashionable compared to fast fashion. However, this perception is changing as more sustainable brands emerge with innovative designs and a wider variety of choices.

Creating sustainable and ethical fashion involves navigating complex supply chains, sourcing materials from certified suppliers, and ensuring compliance with various standards and regulations. This complexity can pose challenges for brands in terms of traceability, cost management, and maintaining transparency throughout the supply chain. The shift towards sustainable and ethical fashion requires consumer education and awareness about the importance of these practices. It can take time for consumers to understand the impact of their purchasing decisions and make more informed choices.

Overall, the benefits of sustainable and ethically made fashion outweigh the challenges, as they contribute to a more responsible and environmentally conscious industry. However, unless these benefits are effectively communicated, comprehended, and embraced, they will merely exist as pleasing phrases conveying an ideal that may appear distant or unattainable It is crucial to confront the drawbacks and actively strive to make sustainable fashion accessible, affordable, and diverse. Only by doing so can we truly foster its widespread adoption and significant impact.

Policy-making and regulations play a significant role to support sustainable fashion practices. These can include environmental standards, labour rights protection, tax incentives for sustainable brands, and support for research and development of sustainable materials. The EU Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), adopted by the Council of the European Union, will require significantly more companies to report on the sustainability of their business activities (European Commission, 2022). This applies to large EU companies and small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) alike, with the exception of micro-enterprises (Pinset Masons, 2022). ESG reporting will be a crucial initiative igniting the drive towards sustainable change in order to reach the Sustainable Development Goals (United Nations, 2022), within the targeted time frame. While ESG reporting is promising, it is also the very first step of a long and continuous journey ahead. ESG reporting can contribute towards fashion sustainability in several ways supporting the concepts of Ethical Fashion and Circular frameworks as it promotes transparency, accountability, and continuous improvement towards sustainability goals. By incorporating ESG reporting into their practices, fashion brands can make more informed decisions, mitigate risks, and drive positive change towards fashion sustainability.

Achieving absolute or complete sustainability may be an incredibly challenging goal, if not an impossible one, due to the complex and interconnected nature of our global systems. Perhaps rather than aiming for absolute sustainability, we could start off by embracing sustainability as a guiding principle and integrating it into our lifestyles, industries, and policies. In awareness of the numerous challenges for fashion sustainability, individual efforts can easily feel futile, nonetheless, every effort matters. It’s the little tweaks in our daily habits which can nurture this process of change and plant the seed for a shift in mindset to truly make a difference. Perhaps starting off by asking ourselves “At which true cost will I wear this?” instead of “What shall I wear?” can be a good start to work towards a more sustainable future, even if complete sustainability may remain an aspirational idea.

Lucille Cachia is the Director of Exereco Ltd.