Malta should have a day dedicated to Maltese sweets, according to pastry chef Paul Fenech who has just published a cookbook of traditional recipes in a bid to keep local culinary heritage and family gatherings alive.

Those who have crossed paths with Fenech know about his passion for the sweets he bakes, especially those that tell a story.

“And there are so many stories from bygone days to tell,” he says, signing a copy of his latest baking cookbook Sweet Maltese Moments, a celebration of 30 traditional recipes, all tied in with a religious feast or celebration, each reminiscing a story.

“These recipes mean a lot to me because they are rooted in centuries-old traditions, so they are part of who we are.

“Fortunately, some, if not all, have remained popular and present in our daily lives,” says the 64-year-old, former owner of Lija’s Dolceria Percius, a project he lovingly spearheaded with his brother 35 years ago.

Fenech started off in the catering industry at the age of 15, as a student doing summer work in the kitchen at the Malta International Trade Fair.

“I helped chefs and polytechnic lecturers prepare for the evening sitting and, by the end of two weeks, I was hooked.”

He graduated from the polytechnic two years later and has never looked back. He worked at the Phoenicia, then the Verdala, which, at the time, was “tops of the tops”, and the Grosvenor.

At the age of 28, Fenech and his brother were catering for weddings, baptisms and other occasions while also running a cafeteria.

“We used to have 150 waiters on a Saturday and another 150 on a Sunday. It was a lot of work,” he says.

Prinjolata: many love the richness of this traditional carnival sweet, found all over Malta.

Despite selling off his business and retiring, Fenech is still a keen baker with a great passion for keeping culinary traditions alive. His favourite sweet is the Maltese figolla covered in icing. The pastry, he says, must be “handled with care... just like a woman”.

In between lecturing on Maltese sweets at the Institute of Tourism Studies and baking for family and friends, Paul says the recipes can be baked any time of the year “because, after all, every day is a celebration”.

“I’m sure many Maltese have baked the recipes in my cookbook time and time again. If not, they must have tasted them.”

He willingly shares and passes on what he has learnt and acquired along the way “for posterity”.

“This cookbook is not just a collection of recipes but a celebration of Malta’s rich food history. I believe we should be proud of our roots.”

We should have a special day on our local calendar dedicated entirely to Maltese sweets

Malta was exposed to a mish-mash of foreign influences over the centuries, from the Phoenicians to the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Italians, Spanish, French, Portuguese and British, who all brought with them traditions, customs and recipes for dishes and desserts.

“These borrowed tastes, all unique in their diversity, found their way into our kitchens, with Maltese families trying, testing and adapting them over the years,” Paul notes.

“Today, from carnival to Easter to Christmas, we can enjoy signature sweets for any kind of celebration. Seasons, months, important dates and memorable occasions all come with their own sweet delights and offerings.”

Bone-shaped biscuits: those who love to bake prepare this staple sweet at the beginning of November, marking All Saints and All Souls Days.

In spring, carnival is a big celebration, so Paul includes his recipes for carnival fritters (xkunvat), traditional carnival cake (prinjolata), Lenten biscuits (kwareżimal), St Joseph’s fritters (sfineġ) and Easter biscuits (figolli).

Autumn represents harvest time, so recipes feature the traditional bone-shaped biscuits (għadam tal-mejtin), in connection with All Saints and All Souls Days, St Martin’s pie (torta ta’ San Martin), a sweet reminder of our childhood days, and honey rings (qagħaq tal-għasel).

Recipes for special occasions include the Maltese trifle, soufflé, date slices (imqaret) and the traditional ice cream (ġelat tan-nanna).

Teatime bakes feature sesami rings (qagħaq tal-ġulġlien), number eight-shaped biscuits (ottijiet) and hard almond biscuits (krustini tal-lewż).

Recipes inspired by a feeling of togetherness include village biscuits (biskuttini tar-raħal) and almond fingers (pasta frolla).

“This is why we should have a special day on our local calendar dedicated entirely to Maltese sweets,” Paul says.

“Malta should showcase this wealth of culinary delights, a living memory of our interesting past.­”

Edited by Martin Bugelli, Sweet Maltese Moments is published by Midsea Books. Each recipe comes in four languages: English, Italian, French and German.