(Serves 4)

20 very large pasta shells – conchiglioni
50g diced pancetta
1 shallot peeled and diced
100g fennel and rocket pesto – or other pesto
4 tbsps fresh breadcrumbs
75g ricotta
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed, optional
20 large snails, cleaned and ready to cook, or use canned snails – without shells
Extra virgin olive oil or rape seed oil
2 or three tbsps white wine
Parsley or fennel tops, finely chopped

As the pasta shells have a tendency to break up, you might want to cook more than 20 in order to get sufficient whole ones. Or place the shells in a large shallow pan pour on boiling water and simmer them very gently until tender. Carefully drain them and leave to one side on a folded tea towel. Even if they do crack, the filling will hold them together.

Meanwhile, fry the pancetta and shallot until soft. Mix the pesto, breadcrumbs, ricotta and garlic, and stir in the pancetta and shallot. Take a snail and a portion of the mixture, fold it around the snail and carefully stuff it into the cooked pasta shell. Place in a shallow oiled oven-proof dish and prepare the rest of the pasta in the same way.

Sprinkle on the oil and white wine and cover loosely with foil. Bake at 180°C for 15 to 20 minutes, until the dish is sizzling, then serve, scattered with chopped herbs.

Cook’s note: If you do not have or like snails, diced sautéed chicken livers or button mushrooms will be fine.