This is part one in a two-part series of articles.

A first-hand experience of the first Maltese hospitalero voluntario (voluntary helper) in the tiny village of Bercianos del Real Camino, halfway along the 800-kilometre Camino Francés route.

In recent years – with the exception of 2020 – on an annual basis, more than 300,000 people from all over the world, including some Maltese, were given a Compostela, a certificate in Latin testifying that they have walked at least 100 kilometres – many walk much more – on a pilgrimage known as the Camino that finishes at the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, in northwest Spain.

A similar number would have trodden one of the 44 old Camino routes from various directions starting in Spain and elsewhere but, for some reason, did not make it to the final destination.

The Camino is this year celebrating the Ano Santo or Xacobean Year, a very special event established in 1122 by Pope Calixto 11 and occurring only when the feast of Santiago (St James) on July 25 happens on a Sunday. Such an event takes place only 14 times in 100 years.

Among other highlights commemorating the event, the ‘holy door’ at the back of the cathedral is opened, granting those who pass through it indulgence or absolution from their sins in the eyes of the Roman Catholic Church.

Walking on foot to the tomb of Santiago de Compostela has been a popular pilgrimage for hundreds of years. Along the route, one finds dozens of albergues or hostels where the weary pilgrims stop for one night to regain their strength and continue their journey the next day. Most refuges are private; some are parish albergues or donativos, where board and lodging is free but, if one wants, a donation can be given. They are run by hospitaleros voluntarios (hosvols) or voluntary helpers, who give their services for free for two weeks once a year.

Pilgrims at the albergue before the evening meal.

Having walked various Camino routes, two years ago I decided on a different path and to give something back to this unique experience by applying to help out as a hosvol. I was accepted as the first Maltese to do such voluntary work. Prerequisites include a previous pilgrim past, fluency in a few languages, interactive social skills, a willingness to work manually, and attendance at a short orientation course where the do’s and don’ts are drilled. 

The Camino is this year celebrating the Ano Santo or Xacobean year

So, on the first day of October 2019, I found myself at the albergue parroquial (parish hostel) of the tiny village of Bercianos del Real Camino, halfway along the 800-kilometre Camino Francés, the most popular of all the routes.

The old but renovated building is also known as the casa rectoral as, in the past, it served as accommodation for the priests of the area. The present parish priest, Padre Jorge, is still nominally responsible for the albergue but, having to look after 10 parishes spread over an area as big as Gozo, he makes rare appearances at the premises.

Luckily, I was in the company of two other experienced hosvols: Marc from France and Luis from Spain, who is also the president of the national and international federations of hospitaleros voluntarios.

The tasks were various: the albergue opens at 1.30pm with the registration of pilgrims who trickle or flood in. We looked at their Credencial − the pilgrim passport − to check personal details, where they had started off and the stamps of the previous albergues where they had lodged. We then put in our stamp and date it. Leaving their boots downstairs, the pilgrims were then allocated one of the 44 bunk beds on the first floor.

The ultimate destination of the pilgrims: the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, in northwest Spain. The ‘holy door’ at the back of the cathedral will be opened this year to mark the Ano Santo or Xacobean Year, granting those who pass through it indulgence or absolution from their sins in the eyes of the Roman Catholic Church. Photo: Shutterstock.com

The albergue of Bercianos del Real Camino, where the author spent 14 days volunteering.

The main event of the day was the communal meal, starting at 7pm, which the pilgrims were also invited to help prepare. Just before the meal, a bell rings out and, if they so wish, the travellers can come to a small chapel where there is a short period of reflection as well as a rendering in various languages of the wise words of Francis of Assisi : “where there is hatred, let me bring love...”

Lights went out at 10pm and came on again at 6.30am. Breakfast was at 7am and the pilgrims were expected to be out of the albergue an hour later.

The main door was then closed and the three of us hosvols would have breakfast. Another main task followed: comprehensive cleaning of the premises: the ground floor made up of the reception, sitting and dining rooms, kitchen and chapel; the stairs, bedrooms, toilets and showers on the first floor; and the large yard outside.

The cleaning, which took around three hours, was truly thorough for there were regular checks by health and safety inspectors, who also monitored our daily charting of the temperature in the fridge, freezer and boiler. A shelter not up to standard can be closed down at the bat of an eyelid.

The next job was opening the donation box and counting the money, some of which was put aside for buying food, the rest passed over to Padre Jorge for maintenance of the refuge and his many community projects.

Joseph Busuttil (centre) with fellow hosvols Luis (left) from Spain and Marc from France.

Twice a week we would go bulk buying for provisions in Sahagun, the nearest town 13 kilometres away, in Luis’s vehicle. If any free time was left, we would go around the village – the 200 inhabitants, mainly farmers, are very friendly and love talking. Every family has its own bodega (wine cellar) either at home or dug out underground in their fields.

Being the vendimia (wine harvest) season, we were frequently invited for a glass of wine or orujo, a high alcohol content brandy obtained by the distillation of the remains of the pressed grapes. The relaxed residents, living in the middle of nowhere, away from the hustle and bustle of chaotic, polluted modern life, have adopted, come rain or sun, the mantra of no pasa nada – it does not matter, for things could be worse!

To be continued tomorrow

Pilgrims walking the Camino near the village of Bercianos del Real Camino. Photo: Shutterstock.com