In a hectic world where instant coffee, pre-packed lunches and micro wave ovens have become the order of the day it would seem like going back into history to be served a meat dish that takes three days to marinate and six hours to cook.

But that is exactly the kind of preparation that takes place at Ir-Razzett l-Antik in Qormi, which specialises in Maltese food as it was prepared and served in the 18th century.

The food ranges from rabbit liver cooked with garlic and honey to patties (pulpetti), tripe with a creamy curry sauce, and fried vermicelli (tarja moqlija) for starters.

Main courses include rabbit marinated in the traditional way, roasted chicken with rosemary and lemon dressing, streamed beef (laham fuq il-fwar) and pork loin stuffed with bacon, egg, parsley and garlic enhanced with honey and orange.

The waiting staff carry food to the table from the kitchen in wicker baskets while wine is served in a flask covered in sack cloth.

In the 18th century wine was stored in goatskins and sheepskins.

The romantic setting is provided by the building itself, an 18th century farmhouse which used to form part of two wind mills.

"Grains used to be brought to the two windmills which, incidentally are no more, and ground here. People used to come to buy the flour to bake bread at the public bakery where they used to take their family meals to be cooked," James Zammit, managing director of Ir-Razzett l-Antik said yesterday.

Mr Zammit, who studied catering and worked in the industry, has carried out research on life in the 18th century, particularly relating to culinary traditions.

The farmhouse is in an area called 'tal-miexi' which was renowned for the large number of windmills and public bakeries. There are about 70 bakeries in Qormi, Malta's bread capital.

The farmhouse has an internal yard and a traditional oven where certain dishes are given a smokey taste that comes from firing the oven with wood.

"If one were to cook the meals completely in a wood-fired oven, meat, fish and potatoes would dry out. In the 18th century, another means of cooking to preserve the juices was to cover the meat and fish with a layer of clay," Mr Zammit said.

Ir-Razzett l-Antik is open Wednesdays to Saturdays for dinner and for Sunday lunch. On Saturday evening, for those who would like to get a taste of Maltese food, the farmhouse presents a Maltese feast including quail and duck where clients can help themselves to a variety of main dishes.

In the 18th century, people used to sun dry fruit for consumption in winter or else make wines of the fruit to preserve and marinate meat with.

Marinated meat would keep for about three days in a cool temperature, such as by being hung down a well or in a cellar.

"What we do at Ir-Razzett l-Antik is replicate those customs. Middle aged clients tell us how much the food revived their memories of childhood, of their grandmother's coffee cooking over a slow fire and the aromas in her kitchen.

"Members of the older generation often tell us that the food we serve has brought back 'old' tastes that they had forgotten and how wholesome traditional Maltese cooking used to be.

"Even the coffee is prepared the traditional way as one savours traditional sweets such as date tarts, almond pastry, or a platter of nougat, helwa and bread pudding," Mr Zammit said.

At the farmhouse, il-pastaz has been revived. Il-pastaz was a porter who used to ferry groceries and other purchases and heavy loads to his clients' home from the market.

"This is a renaissance not only of Maltese food but also of our grass roots. It is a gastronomical cultural experience. You taste the food, appreciate the music and get to know at first hand the hospitality of Maltese customs.

"Sections of the menu are changed according to the religious culture of these islands including Carnival, Easter, November and Christmas," Mr Zammit said.

Ir-Razzett l-Antik caters also for conferences and other meetings.

More information about Ir-Razzett l-Antik is available at www.farmhousecooking.com which includes a short history of Qormi.

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