The arrival of the Normans in Sicily brought about a massive transformation in the way the island was administered as well as a very impressive period of building new churches and palaces. The best examples are to be found in the Palermo area.

Unfortunately, it is not so well known that when the Normans arrived, they established their capital in Troina and stayed there for 30 years before they moved to Palermo. Troina is an incredibly beautiful city just next to the extraordinary Parco dei Nebrodi.

An alleyway of the Quartiere Scalforio

The city of Troina lies very close to the frontier with Calabria. The Normans, on crossing from Calabria in 1062, needed a very well-developed defensive position to control the vast area of Sicily at a time when their rule was not yet so strong and certain. Here they built their first cathedral in Sicily and their first castle, both of which we can still see today. They also built fortifications even though the city in itself is in a very high position above the valleys and thus provides its own defence. In fact, the city, which today has a population of about 9,000, is the second most populated one in Sicily among those that are at an altitude of 1,000 metres and over.

Troina is an entry point to the Parco dei Nebrodi and has a massive area of the park under its control. Like the rest of Sicily, it went through turbulent times and was conquered by Arabs until the Normans came.

Count Roger decided to establish his capital there, and when pope Urban II needed to discuss with Count Roger the matters of the state and the Church, he travelled down to Troina in 1082. The cathedral had by then already been built.

There is evidence that the area has been inhabited since neolithic times. The same team from the University of Cambridge that have been involved in the Xagħra Circle have also excavated in this area in Sicily and found very important evidence of settlement.

The city went through its ups and downs but always remained an important one. Its history is a very complex one and the city often changed allegiance. It played a very important role in World War II as the allies pushed the Germans away from Sicily. The famous American photographer Robert Capa photographed this battle extensively.

Troina was an important ecclesiastical city with over 30 churches and monasteries. It was an important centre for Basilian monks. Some of these churches do not exist anymore or are in ruins.

Lago Sartori in Parco dei Nebrodi

The city centre is in a very good state, although a large part of the population had moved away from the old city into new areas. Its streets and alleys are very interesting indeed.

The Parco dei Nebrodi is an enormous park that merits a visit. It has its own microclimate. I like to call it the Switzerland of the Mediterranean for its beautiful forests, lakes and multitude of wild animals, and because of its very harsh winter. In May, I experienced zero degrees Celsius in the mountains. Winter is cold and snowy, and the lakes are frozen. One of the lakes is an artificial lake established in the 1950s for a hydroelectric plant but today looks completely natural. The San Fratellano wild horse and the black swine rule the forests.

Troina is also very well known for having the largest hospital for persons with a disability. Attached to the so-called Oasi is a very big hotel used for specialised conferences. Prices are very reasonable.

Troina may seem out of the way for many but it is only an hour-and-a-half to two hours away from Catania’s airport. It is worth a visit, especially because of the friendliness of the people and the very authentic ambiance of an old Sicilian town.

Ray Bondin is a renowned world heritage expert.