In the 19th century, Malta saw quite a number of well-known visitors who were on their Mediterranean cruise leading to the Levant and especially to Alexandria.

“Their frequent walks through the streets of Valletta brought them nearer to the people.” Photo shows Strada Reale, Valletta, with a corner of the Palace on the right and the Casino Maltese on the left.

At random, these travellers and men-of-letters included the poet George Gordon Byron (1809), Benjamin Disraeli (1830), Sir Walter Scott (1831), Cardinal John Henry Newman (1832), the lyric French poet Alphonse Marie Louis Prat de Lamartine (1835), Hans Christian Andersen (1841), William Makepease Thackeray (1844) and F. Lacroix (1848).

In this list one could include a 19th century German traveller who stopped in Malta in 1822: Dr Jurist Gustav Ferdinand Court Parthey.

The Germans are keen travellers. Dr Gustav Parthey, a Prussian, was travelling with Dr Giovanni Enrico Westphal (Welphal), also an advocate by profession and Prussian by nationality. They arrived in Malta from Syracuse on board an 80-tonne Neapolitan schooner Concezione early in the afternoon on July 11, 1822, where they entered harbour.

As often happens, literary men like recording in writing their adventures when travelling abroad as a reminiscence, perhaps, and also for the benefit and enjoyment of their readers.

Parthey dedicated a special section to Malta in his book Wanderungen durch Sicilien und the Levant, which was published in Berlin in 1834.

He wrote that Valletta presented the visitor “a pleasant impression” when seen from the sea. “Valletta is by far more tidy than Sicilian cities, the Maltese more attractive, the sailors, porters and workers are generally tall and slenderly built and wear bright colours: green, blue, red. The women are more fair than their Sicilian counterparts, wearing a typical costume comprising a light black silk cloak. Indeed, Malta is a bridge between Europe and the Orient.”

“Nature and the fortifications made Valletta an impregnable city in the Meditteranean.” A map of the city’s forts and bastions. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Gustav Parthey’s sketch of the façade of St John’s Co-Cathedral and life in St John’s Square, Valletta. “The women are more fair than their Sicilian counterparts, wearing a typical costume comprising a light black silk cloak.”

The Great Britain Hotel, (67, Strada Mezzodi), where they lodged, was close to the Governor’s Palace. They found some friendly rooms in English style, that is, with all possible comforts. “These were very much welcome after our experience in Sicily and on board the ship.”

Through English and German merchants they made acquaintance with pleasant, young ladies at table. It was a colourful mix of merchants, public officers, ships’ clerks, naval officers, etc. The conversation was about the day’s news, and some guests talked about things that provided a deeper look into the way of life of the local people. “Here everybody understands each other without much effort; all languages which the Mediterranean embraces flow together.”

“English is the language of the establishment, which consists, to a great extent, of public officers and merchants. Italian is easily understood. Official notices are in English and Italian. An Italian newspaper caters for the inhabitants, while the English papers reach the island every fortnight by the packet boat.”

As Parthey and Westphal had arrived in Malta in the peak of summer, they could anticipate what it would be like in Egypt, their next destination.

The streets are practicable but for the stranger there is no other means of transport other than the two-wheel, covered carriage, drawn by one horse, which is uncomfortable and bumpy

Nature and the fortifications made Valletta an impregnable city in the Meditteranean. They witnessed the arrival of Admiral Moore – he was given a roarding gun salute from all the bastions of the city.

They did not miss visiting places of interest in Valletta. These included a visit to the Bibliotheca, where they met the librarian, Mgr Giuseppe Giovanni Bellanti, an affable young man, with whom they established good relations.

Frontispice of Gustav Parthey’s book Wanderungen durch Sicilien und the Levant, published in Berlin in 1834.

Bellanti had spent several years in Egypt and could speak Arabic fluently. “He is extraordinarily courteous and pleasing, and through his lively stories he clearly explained to us the situation in Egypt.”

Seven weeks had gone by “hampered”, as it were, waiting for a boat proceeding to Egypt. At one time it was suggested that they would take a ship to Tunis, and from there they would travel along the coastline by camel – a distance of over 100 miles. The idea was eventually dropped.

Their frequent walks through the streets of Valletta brought them nearer to the people.

Parthey writes: “I have not missed the Maltese passeggiata to include in my sketch book in order to take with me a lasting reminder of my stay here: two capuchin friars, the elder one, bald headed and bearing a white beard, portrayed a humble person, and the younger one, with brown turned-up nose, personified lack of bashfulness; one of Malta’s richest bankers, half blind, helped by two servants, an English preacher, whom we jokingly called Sir Hugh Evans.

Among these strange characters there were brave sea-officers, each one of them could be a dauntless Sir Sidney Smith, a young Maltese fellow of distinguished attractiveness, the widow of an officer with her two beautiful daughters called Roslind and Celia, after Shakespeare’s drama, a proud, vain ship’s captain of Herculean stature, who gave the most part in the unfortunate battle of Coruna in saving the English army.”

“Before or after the passeggiata there was always time for a swim; it was almost a necessity because of the prevailing heat. A good place for this was Rinella Bay, which took its name, perhaps, from the sand. The Maltese like swimming to refresh a bit. We seldom go the theatre at this time of the summer season.”

A painting of the Bibliotheca, Valletta, by Charles de Brocktorff (1775-1850), where Gustav Parthey and Giovanni Enrico Westphal met the librarian, Mgr Giuseppe Giovanni Bellanti. Photo: Wikimedia Commons

Since the building of the city of Valletta, the former capital is called Città Vecchia. The streets are practicable but for the stranger there is no other means of transport other than the two-wheel, covered carriage, drawn by one horse, which is uncomfortable and bumpy.

There is a regular connection with the nearby island of Gozo (Gaulos), known for its excellent wine and honey.

“Finally, we had a good opportunity to proceed to Alexandria with an elegant and fine Austrian-Venetian brigantino: Viaggiatore. This augured well for the journey. We had an interesting conversation with Capitano Giacomo Cagnani, a young, friendly man. We paid 12 pezzi each for the journey.”

The ship was fastened to a buoy in Marsamuscietto Harbour. On September 3, 1822, at 6am, the ship weighed anchor.

The journey from Malta to Alexandria lasted 10 days. The almost two months in Malta “hat das Gute gehabt” – were well spent.

Gustav Parthey’s sketch of Malta and Comino as seen from Mġarr Harbour, Gozo. “There is a regular connection with the nearby island of Gozo (Gaulos), known for its excellent wine and honey.”

“I have not missed the Maltese passeggiata to include in my sketch book in order to take with me a lasting reminder of my stay here.” Gustav Parthey’s sketch of Mdina, Malta’s former capital, also called Città Vecchia.