As Malta receives its sixth Michelin star – and has continuously held on to its previous prestigious titles over the past three years – it begs the question: how beneficial is it to be included in the fine dining guide?

“It comes with a lot of responsibility,” Crust chef patron Sean Gravina said.

Gravina has worked under both Gordon Ramsey and Wolfgang Puck, two internationally renowned culinary masters who have held their fair share of Michelin stars over their careers.

While obtaining a star or being included in the guide’s list of recommendations is a recognition worth celebrating, the pressures of maintaining a Michelin-level quality establishment is one that many chefs might steer away from.

“As soon as you get a Michelin star, things change… people’s expectancies skyrocket,” Gravina said.

In 2024, Danish restaurant Noma will be closing its doors to the public as its head chef wants to leave the weight of its three Michelin stars behind him.

Once a restaurant obtains a Michelin star, public perception shifts as clients expect much more from their meal experience. This directly contradicts the recent wave of casual but quality-orientated culture that the industry is seeing, Gravina said.

“People nowadays prefer the casual, nice ambience atmosphere,” he said, noting that social media trends such as “food porn” posts have led to restaurants upping their game without the stresses of fine dining culture.

“You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get something good, to get something stylish… you don’t have to spend over and above to get a good meal.”

Briju’s executive chef Rafel Sammut agreed that owning a Michelin star puts restaurants into a smaller and more niche market, yet saw it as a positive, as a steady flow of deeper-pocketed clientele will start to appear.

Sammut also emphasised the stresses of obtaining a star which continues after the achievement as the restaurant works at maintaining the title.

“It’s a lovely achievement but one must be ready for the aftermath of dealing with the pressure it brings with it.”

Gravina, for one, said that he would be “sceptical” about reaching for the star as he enjoys the balance between quality and affordability his food has struck.

‘Everyone wants to get one’

Malta’s most recent Michelin star was awarded to Fernandõ Gastrotheque, a small Sliema bistro that focuses on Mediterranean cuisine with a French style which the Michelin guide describes as “informal yet elegant”.

The mind and culinary skill behind the eatery’s first star is Hungarian chef Laszlo Sragli who joined the restaurant in 2019, a year before their first recognition as a Michelin recommendation in 2020.

On March 3, 2023, Fernandõ received its first Michelin star on, coincidentally, Sragli’s final day with the establishment.

“I got it on my last day... I finished on the top,” he said as he struggled to put into words the pride and sense of accomplishment he felt at his work being recognised at such a prestigious level.

“Every chef dreams about it,” he said. Sragli is the first Hungarian to receive a star outside of his home country.

When asked about other chefs and their wary views on the stress of achieving and maintaining Michelin star status, he hunkered down and reiterated his belief.

“I’m pretty sure that if you ask the majority of chefs, even if they say they don’t, they want it.”

One must be ready for dealing with the pressure it brings

He explained that even when a chef calls it quits with the Michelin guide, their reputation has already been permanently affected for the better and will carry on into their next project, casual or not.

As for the pressure of getting to that first star, Sragli’s mindset has always seen him push himself forward rather than rely on external pressures.

“I have to set my own standards.”

International stars

Michelin-star restaurants are burdened by pressures as, once they are recognised by the French guide, costs rise as they strive to keep a consistent level of quality to match their title.

Financially, the burden is constant. Once receiving a star, an establishment must maintain a consistent quality to be able to continuously keep the accreditation as Michelin stars are not lifelong achievements.

And, if the star is ever taken away – a case which has yet to happen in Malta – a massive target is placed on the restaurant as people begin to question what led to the demotion.

Even mentally, the mounting stress of constantly being on Michelin’s chopping block has seen renowned chefs close shop or request to not be included in the guide.

First reported by the New York Times, Noma – which holds three Michelin stars and has been named the “world’s best restaurant” – will close its shutters in 2024.

“Financially and emotionally, as an employer and as a human being, it just doesn’t work,” Noma head chef René Redzepi said.

How do I get a star?

The same company that produces tyres, Michelin, is extremely secretive on what criteria make up their star test, yet there are five key assessment factors that every inspector must adhere to as per Michelin’s own website.

• Quality products: While using premium and luxe ingredients and fresh, locally-grown seasonal components are not a must-have, the quality of a chef’s ingredients must be “the best of the best”.

• Cooking and flavour mastery: Throwing a dish together is more than using the best ingredients, so chefs must be able to demonstrate their culinary prowess in the dishes’ balance, flavours and detail.

• Chef’s personality: Within a dish, there must be personality. A chef needs to be able to leave their signature within their work while still making the meal function and taste good.

• Value for money: No matter the cost of the meal, a customer’s experience needs to leave them thinking on a “wow” factor – a criteria that can be wildly subjective as it may include external elements such as service.

• Consistency: One of the greatest reasons why stars are taken away, consistency is key to maintaining your status. But, for those worried that an inspector might visit on an off day, inspectors visit establishments multiple times in groups or individually before passing judgement.

While the guide does not make mention of presentation and atmosphere, many chefs believe that both are important aspects that push inspectors into awarding stars.