Early on Sunday morning, while everyone is either still asleep or getting ready to go to the beach, Andrew Galea is out hunting… not for any kind of prey but for specific wartime structures popularly known as ‘pillboxes’ due to their shape. 

Armed with a camera, he scours the island in search of these historical remnants to then share his discoveries and their stories on a Facebook page he manages, titled ‘WW2 Sites Malta’.

For the uninitiated, pillboxes are small fortified structures constructed as part of British anti-invasion preparations during the second world war. They normally feature slits through which soldiers could observe goings-on or fire weapons.

A waterfront beach post near Smart City in Kalkara. Photos: Andrew Galea

Mr Galea has long been aware of the existence of such structures as his favourite beach perch in his childhood years was on a pillbox on a cliff edge some 15 metres high and overlooking the sea.

“We used to lie on it, jump or dive off it. We would climb into it through the observation slit. I would definitely not fit through the slit any longer and do not think I would have the guts to jump off, let alone dive off it,” Mr Galea, a marketing manager in the hospitality industry, quips.

His interest in pillboxes grew in more recent years. Initially, he had set out to photograph village cores and to discover the island “with fresh eyes”. Next he started visiting landmarks, from particular buildings to hidden valleys to Victorian forts. 

He eventually narrowed his focus to concentrate on pillboxes.

Some pillboxes are well camouflaged like this one close to the Red Tower in Mellieħa.

“In my walks, I kept coming across relatively uncharted pillboxes which, for some strange reason, most people do not even know exist. I really saw how, in most cases, this amazing interesting section of our history has been abandoned,” Mr Galea says.

“This includes nearly all the World War II anti-aircraft gun emplacements which are in a shambles and an insult to the many brave men, both Maltese and foreign, who served on them, some with the ultimate sacrifice,” he remarks.

Most pillboxes are dilapidated, although you do come across one or two that are surprisingly in a very good condition

Mr Galea has come across all types and styles of pillboxes. They range from the pre-war ones (circa 1935-1939), which were built due to the Abyssinia Crisis when Fascist Italy was casting its eyes on Malta, to the standard box types that were mass produced in the peak of the war years.

“The early ones are generally very well constructed, mostly unique in style, beautifully situated and excellently camouflaged to fit in with the local terrain. Detailing inside is a joy to see,” he says.

This structure in Manikata, dating circa 1935, is one of the earliest pillboxes on the island.

“The latter ones are usually of two standard designs, functional and finished in concrete – although some were painted to mimic farmhouses – which generally stick out. In between, these two types are countless dwellings converted to gun posts, and an amazing set of extremely well-camouflaged observation posts,” he continues, adding that the latter kind are his favourite.

Certain areas, like Mellieħa and Birżebbuġa, which have good landing beaches, have a higher concentration of pillboxes. 

“These defences were strategically placed in vulnerable areas with tiers of interlocking defensive support, starting with the posts directly on the shore and a second line to create defence in depth,” Mr Galea notes.

A waterfront pillbox built in front of the Sirens Aquatic Sports Club in St Paul’s Bay.

Pillboxes are, however, scattered all over the island, from the main entrance to Valletta to a machine gun post hidden in the Notre Dame gate on the Cottonera lines. 

Most of them are accessible, yet Mr Galea is adamant that those located on private property or cultivated land should be respected. 

Also, one should be very careful before venturing inside any of them, as the structures may be falling apart, besides possibly being home to rats as litter is often strewn around them.

“Sad to say, most pillboxes are dilapidated, although you do come across one or two that are surprisingly in a very good condition and not vandalised or taken over and converted into summer huts. These structures are supposed to be protected by law,” he laments.

A pillbox on the outer wall of Fort Campbell, built by the British circa 1937 in Mellieħa. It is considered the last major fortification to be built in Malta.

Mr Galea would, in fact, like to raise awareness of this “fantastic legacy” through his Facebook page, and help people appreciate and care for it. 

“I would love to see the public asking their councils and appropriate authorities to supervise and invest in preserving our history. A lot of countries are waking up to this tourist potential and it just adds another strata to our island product,” he says.

He points out that the Mellieħa local council has done “some wonderful work” in looking after pillboxes in the past and hopes other councils will follow suit.

A pillbox on the main entrance to Valletta, standing proudly in front of Renzo Piano’s Parliament building.