History was made last month when Malta joined 32 countries already covered by the Michelin Guide, the prestigious list of recommended eateries.

Delicata’s Moscato paired with a Michelin-starred dessert.Delicata’s Moscato paired with a Michelin-starred dessert.

There was speculation that only one local restaurant would cut the mustard. Finally a total of three establishments, De Mondion in Mdina and Noni and Under Grain in Valletta, were accorded their debut Michelin star.

Another three restaurants, Commando, Rubino and Terrone, were awarded a Bib Gourmand and no fewer than 20 places received a Plate commendation.

What many thought to be impossible is now a reality. Although Malta lacks a historical tradition of haute cuisine, the culinary scene has officially arrived.

For chefs, Michelin stars are the ultimate accolade. Some will say fine restaurants are like well-made bottles of wines; they need no bush. But, in today’s world of people relying more than ever before on the opinion of others to make decisions, the wisdom of experts can be compelling.

Doubting Thomases will have to recognise that the Maltese archipelago boasts cooking talents that are worthy of discovery.

Grossing a Michelin star or even a mention in the world’s foremost culinary guide is no easy way to earn street credit.

However, winning in the kitchen is not about beating others; it’s about challenging yourself. Therefore, honours like these do not only acknowledge success: they recognise many other qualities such as skill, effort, passion and perseverance.

These virtues aren’t exclusive to the island’s Michelin legends. They’re also found in many other hard-working brigades and service staff, our unsung heroes that unfortunately didn’t make it in the Red Book. Like Malta’s first Michelin restaurants, Malta’s top wineries likewise set themselves high goals and accomplish feats of triumphant taste and beauty significant to their craft.

It too could not be done, they said, but winemakers persisted and have shown that Maltese wine can, in fact, be one of the world’s most exciting propositions. Malta’s modern wines have earned their own list of medals and critical acclaim as shown by the Delicata winery, whose wines have been winning on the world stage since the mid-1990s.

For a Maltese winery like Delicata, Malta’s Michelin debut must be a particularly sweet moment.

Delicata wines have been served at Michelin-starred eateries in Italy and France before. But is there a greater joy for a local winemaker than seeing your home-grown wines being served and savoured at a temple of culinary excellence in your own country?

With the release of the 2020 Michelin Guide, that has become the case overnight and not at one but several local restaurants of Michelin fame.

For Malta’s hospitality sector, the future looks bright.

Like Olympic medal winners inspire younger athletes to take up sports seriously, the success of Malta’s Michelin chefs will encourage the next generation to aim for the highest standards.

Michelin recognition will help attract and retain great talent. And, as the catering trade improves further, it will encourage everyone, including suppliers and winemakers, to raise the bar higher still.

It’s living on a knife-sharp edge from here on.

Ultimately, the real prizes aren’t the stars, bibs and plates or the medals for Malta’s wines for that matter. The final reward will present itself as an even better epicurean experience on your plate and in the glass.

 

Georges Meekers is Delicata’s head of marketing and an award-winning wine writer.

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