Valletta is currently going through a dramatic haul. Studies are continually being carried out on a way forward for the city, for it to thrive healthily and holistically. The following is the way I see it; it’s simply the perspective of a local citizen who considers Valletta as part of our revered heritage.
I have recently experienced a fascinating virtual journey into the history of Valletta, which was recounted quite dynamically by researcher and author Michael Cassar at a U3E (University of the Third Age) centre. He took us to areas within the city − one at a time − and got us acquainted with the old references given to different zones in Valletta such as Due Balli, fuq l-Ixprun, Arċipierku, fuq il-Ġgant, Mandraġġ, all of which have their own identity.
Cassar highlighted the changes the city underwent along the years, such as at the harbour and the different entrances to the city together with the local culture. He also mentioned the various types of transport that terminated in Valletta and the different social classes that populated the city through the years – ranging from aristocracy to barefooted and lower-class gentry who created a very colourful history.
In 2005, an NGO foundation was set up, the Valletta Alive Foundation (VAF), for the sole purpose of regenerating Valletta. I was its girl Friday at the time and it involved persons from different backgrounds but with a common interest: Valletta. It was long being felt that the capital city had become a hub for commerce during the day but, once the commercial activities were over at about 5pm, everyone rushed out of the city, turning it into a quiet, sad and empty place lacking of any life.
So, among other things, VAF encouraged and lobbied for pedestrianisation areas to let people own back their roads − rather than the cars − to be enjoyed and appreciated more. And, indeed, slowly but surely, this strategy was implemented and we all started to discover the rich architecture we always had around the city but had never really seen.
It became such a pleasure to own back these spaces devoid of any cars and, soon enough, restaurants saw the opportunity to take to the streets and get people to enjoy their food smack on the newly-reclaimed open spaces right in front of their establishments.
Tables and chairs are now all over the main streets of the city and The Gut area in the narrow Strait Street is, once again, a hive of activity. This certainly provided colour and new life to the city – the very life that was much lacking.
Plans for Valletta have to incorporate businesses, the environment and the needs of the locals for a holistic perspective to work well
However, this new situation started impinging on the residents who found themselves surrounded by late night music and rowdy patrons; this going on late into the night and disturbing their peace.
In a recent survey on how the locals feel about the changes, someone said: “Before, Valletta was dead but now there is noise…”
The revolution came with a vengeance as even old, dilapidated palaces were given life again and turned into sophisticated boutique hotels, which, at the moment, hover around the 100 in number (with some undergoing renovations), whereas, before, there was only a handful. Indeed, the old palaces are now being salvaged and enhanced into beautifully cared-for buildings.
But man’s mind does not always manage to join all the dots in a situation. The coronavirus hit us all unexpectedly and these hotels are now in need of patrons who are not easily available at present due to lockdowns and lack of tourists.
Indeed, as everyone else in the world, we are going through internal questioning of what would be the best road ahead and how to marry progress with sustainability. It has to be done with the integration of both mind and heart where everyone is included in the project.
Plans for Valletta have to incorporate businesses, the environment and the needs of the locals for a holistic perspective to work well. The city has gone through a lot in the past with war damage, poverty, executions and red-light areas... but it survived.
As Giovanni Bonello , former judge of the European Court of Human Rights, reminds us, Valletta was initially exclusively built as a fortress rather than as a city due to its strategic harbour and the need to defend it. The inhabitants came about as a coincidence since the bastions needed to be defended and manned. Consequently, along the years, a community established itself in Valletta, made it its own and embraced it wholeheartedly. However, the fact remains that it is not quite a practical place to live in, with its many stairs, uneven streets with hills and dips, congested roads and few parking slots.
Understandably, the old timers had cultivated a bond and won’t care to consider staying anywhere else but the upcoming younger generation may not see the city to be adequate enough for them to raise a family. They have different needs nowadays, such as more open spaces for their children.
Valletta may indeed die a slow death for residential purposes but may find a new calling for retirees and expats who can appreciate its particular charm and culture at their own pace.
Valletta is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Besides its unique harbour and fortifications, it is certainly a city of culture, history, entertainment and commerce. In time, it may find its new position – and survive as it has always done – but it will be transformed… whether one likes it or not. Only time can tell.
Mary Attard is a freelance writer and photographer.