Yue Bistro by Munchies
Labour Avenue,
Naxxar
2258 9888/9958 9888

Food: 7/10
Service: 6/10
Ambience: 8/10
Value: 7/10
Overall: 7/10

Malta’s culinary scene has been exploding in recent years. Such is the pace at which apartment buildings, cranes and piles of rubble have been springing up that I can barely keep track. If there’s one downside to all this unfettered growth (“Just ONE?” I hear you say), it’s that many new eateries tend to be located in modern buildings. This usually affords them little in the way of congruence with the surrounding milieu. Such settings typically offer even less of a match with the type of cuisine on offer.

What a pleasure it was, then, to walk into Yue Bistro, which abuts the health club of the same name on the outskirts of Naxxar. Despite a somewhat random location and undeniably contemporary architecture, the interior design of this restaurant seems far from an afterthought.

Divided in two, the light and airy windowed section skirts a classic bar. This is perfect for chatty lunchtime diners. And just to the right as you walk in, the bistro’s inner antechamber, with its sultry lighting, offers an altogether more subtle ambiance.

Tunes at just the right volume thrum along pleasantly from hidden reaches. This is in stark contrast to many venues’ idea of ‘background music’, here in Malta.

In such locations, melodies sometimes assail all five senses to the point of overload. Such musical onslaughts can only be intended for the entertainment of bored waiting staff, and not for that of customers. YEESH.

Nay, the tasteful aural backdrop at Yue Bistro is visually augmented by warmly lit teak browns with purple-toned placemats and chair cushions. All of this, along with exemplary table dressing and glassware, evokes something of a classic Parisian brasserie, albeit with a distinctly modern bent. On an island prizing brazen growth at the expense of all else nowadays, Yue’s decorative throwback to a largely bygone era washed over me like a warm morning’s Mediterranean sun.

Naturally, I was intrigued to discover whether this distinctly Gallic attention to detail would be reflected in the restaurant’s service and cuisine. I was seated with minimal fuss. The waiters – polite, businesslike and in formal attire – rapidly furnished me with both food and wine menus.

Yue’s house white wine is a feisty French number from the Côtes du Rhône. A blend of grapes, the bouquet was pleasantly sweet, even if I typically prefer my whites a little drier. It was fragrant, eminently quaffable, and almost devoid of tannic aftertaste. I was veritably blazing through my glass, and I hadn’t even ordered yet! “Steady on old friend,” I muttered to myself under my breath.

Yue’s decorative throwback to a largely bygone era washed over me like a warm morning’s Mediterranean sun

But first, a brief aside: parking next to the Yue venue can be tricky. This is especially true at night, since street lighting in this area is far from adequate. If you don’t find a spot in the siding next to the building itself, across the street on the main road there is usually ample space. But do take care crossing that street, lest you fall foul of ‘Johnny Whizzpop’ tearing up the hill at breakneck speed in his ‘87 Ford Fiesta to pick up a takeaway capricciosa for his ‘bellezza’.

Yue Bistro’s food menu is comprehensive, running the gamut from snacks and hors d’oeuvres through pizzas, pasta dishes and classic mains. I decided to pass on a starter that day – hopeful instead to be left with room for dessert. After perusing said menu and making my selection, fresh bread, olive oil and balsamic vinegar arrived promptly whilst I supped what remained of my crisp white wine.

And my choice? Given the long queues at the supermarket that day, I was in a carnivorous humour. I thus opted for the braised and smoked pork shank. This, the menu advised, would be served with a cannellini bean ragout, Sicilian sausage, roasted fennel, carob jus and thyme.

And goodness: was the pork shoulder that arrived ever copious? Yes. Yes it was. Splendidly basted with a honey-like marinade, this cut was deliciously braised. It was both moist and succulent, with a distant smokiness that arrived gradually on the palate with successive mouthfuls.

Neither did the accompaniments or presentation disappoint. The Sicialian sausage was served finely diced into the bean ragout, and supported the pork nicely with its added dash of saltiness. The fennel – much like roast onion in consistency – had a rustic, gentle flavour, with none of that sharpness can so easily dominate such a spread. A charming side dish of roast potatoes, garnished with a dash of rosemary and parsley, was a classic complement to the pork.

If I had one niggle, ’tis that the food on this plate was served warm – but not hot. I would have preferred to be presented with a piping dish, just a few minutes out of the oven. It can always sit and steam for a few moments in front of me. But hey: call me a quibbler. This was but a minor dropped stitch in the tapestry that was my meal.

The waiting staff were up to par throughout, with the maître d’ stopping by to check on me at just the opportune moment. Yue Bistro’s service is efficient – but not overly hurried. So perhaps don’t plan on a whistlestop meal there. ’Twas no bother for me, though: this dining experience was one to be pored over, not crossed off like an item on a construction site safety inspector’s to-do list.

In all honesty, given that my entrée was so abundant a plate, yours truly was already approaching satiation. That said, I did still want to sample the bistro’s sweets, so I requested the dessert menu. I was pleasantly surprised to note the inclusion of imqaret (a deep fried date square), served here with ice-cream. Perfect for visitors seeking a more locally-sourced end to their meal.

I was having none of it that day, though. I’ll save the local bites for my strolls in Valletta, thank-you. Instead, I plumped for the chocolate fudge cake! This generous wedge arrived with a swizzle of cherry sauce on the side. Alas, my fork got the better of my camera, in that moment. And so I have no photo of said cake to share with you, in this instance. I’ll make it up to you next time, I promise.

Suffice it to say that the sponge was moist and light, with a delightful fudge sauce separating the layers. Perhaps a tad milder in chocolatiness than I expected, the cake was not overly sweet, which was appreciated. If anything, the cherry sauce provided a welcome dash of tartness. ’Twas an ideal follow-up to my hearty entrée.

Munchies sports three locations, all situated in the northern half of Malta. I was more than pleased with my meal at their Yue destination. With a menu that caters to all tastes and the delightful aforementioned setting, you’re unlikely to go wrong. Prices are a little above the norm, but you’re paying for that added class and quality. Perhaps, then, it’s an outing to reserve for those slightly special occasions. Recommended.

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