The idea of writing a series of articles packed with photos of pillboxes and other field defences has always been on my mind. My aim was to record as many as possible of the remaining pillboxes and bring them to the public’s awareness. This series has so far covered those at Mellieħa and Mosta. Now it’s the turn of Mġarr.

First group of pillboxes, 1935-39

Although the first building programme of pillboxes and other field defences began in 1935, when Italy invaded Abyssinia, the first real pillboxes were built around August 1938. Land began to be purchased from civilians or ceded by the government to the War Department for the building of pillboxes and other types of defences. 

A shot of the rear of Fomm ir-Riħ beach-post FR1.

It seems that the real building programme of pillboxes started in 1938 because this is the earliest date that shows the building of the first defences of this type in Malta. 

These pillboxes were built by the Royal Engineers. Many of the pillboxes built during this period were beach-posts and depth-posts. 

A close-up of the depth-post R1 at Tal-Bokka taċ-Ċarċara.

The second group of pillboxes, 1939-42

Meanwhile, as a result of the growing threat of war, after the occupation of the whole Czechoslovakia on March 1939, the previous type of pillboxes was discarded. The stone cladding camouflage and curved fronts were abandoned and a new type of pillbox, which was similar to the shape of a box, was introduced. This new type of pillbox, like its predecessors, was built by the Royal Engineers. The building of the previous type of pillboxes took a lot of time and, because the threat of war was increasing, an easy model of pillboxes was introduced. This time, most of the new pillboxes were build inland and some of them still exist.

Both beach-post GT1 and the Għajn Tuffieħa watchtower guarded Għajn Tuffieħa Bay.

There were three main types of pillboxes built during this period and many of them were not camouflaged. Those that were painted were camouflaged to look like rubble walls or even painted to appear as rural farmhouses; doors and windows were added to the latter. As already mentioned, the pillboxes built during this period had the shape of a box. Nearly all of them have four rectangular machine-gun portholes in the four corners of the structure. 

Lippija watchtower overlooking Ġnejna Bay

They also have an observation turret either in the middle of the pillbox roof or at the front, the latter generally consisting of a high-rise turret raised from the ground floor. The observation cupola was reached by a ladder. In the middle of each wall there are two rifle loopholes and they have an entrance hatch on the rear. Although the first raids on Malta began on June 11, 1940, the building of pillboxes continued till the siege was lifted in mid-1942. 

At Mosta, there are at least three pillboxes, or, as better known, reserve-posts and another different structure, along the Victoria Lines, which forms part of the same town.

Depth-post R1 has a strange structure next to it. Probably a Bren Gun light machine-gun was mounted on a tripod against low-flying enemy aircraft or else to maintain a tank full of water and other necessities.

How the pillboxes were armed and supplied

The beach-posts were generally armed with Vickers 0.303-inch heavy machine-guns while the depth-posts and reserve-posts were armed with Bren light machine-guns. Apart from these small arms, soldiers could also use their SMLE rifles from the small loopholes that all the pillboxes had. 

All the machine-gun portholes and rifle loopholes had a shutter that could be closed in colder days. 

A front view of depth-post L1 and the searchlight emplacement in front of it.

Every pillbox had sufficient ammunition so in case of an invasion they could resist for a number of days. Many of the pillboxes also had a Bren gun mounted on a tripod to be used against low-flying enemy aircraft. These Bren guns were surrounded with sand bags against enemy bullets. Every pillbox also had a small water tank for the soldiers’ daily use. 

A view of Fomm ir-Riħ beach-post FR1

Inside every pillbox there were wooden beds where the soldiers could sleep at night. The soldiers were also supplied with their daily needs, like skimmed milk, coffee and other food items. They also had kettles, mugs, bowls and kitchen pots, all made of enamel. 

Beach-post GT1 overlooking Għajn Tuffieħa Bay

Each structure had a telephone connected with other pillboxes and the headquarters. Each pillbox was surrounded with double barbed wire in case of an invasion by enemy soldiers. This would have prevented them from reaching the structure. 

In ‘normal’ situations, 33 per cent of the garrison of each beach-post would be given a ‘stand-to’ order from one hour before sunrise to full light and 20 per cent from sunset to one hour after sunset. 

At night, sentries would be posted at key beach-posts selected by brigade commanders and would active patrol the coastline. However, if a storm hit Malta, there would be a reduction of patrols as decided by the brigade commanders. 

Italian-German preparations for the invasion of Malta, 1942

The Italian naval authorities continued to prepare their invasion plans of Malta. The Italian authorities knew every detail of the Maltese islands; obviously this was helped by air photography (and, probably, those Maltese who remained in Italy helped them too). 

A view of the panorama from Tal-Bokka taċ-Ċarċara depth-post R1.

In his book Operazione C3: Malta, Mariano Gabriele included in the appendices a resumé of a reunion, dated March 6, 1942, which consists of the studies made by the Italians, who were Admiral Tur, General Sogno, Comando Supremo Italiano, and a group of Japanese experts. It must be said that the latter already had vast experience of seaborne invasions and successful landings in the Far East against Allied colonies, between December 1941 and March 1942. 

By mid-April 1942, the Germans had begun to take a more practical interest and a joint German-Italian staff was set up. New plans jostled one another but certain firm agreements were gradually reached. The Italians, in conjunction with the Germans, knew that extensive bombardment of the islands needed to be done to soften the military installations. 

A front view of depth-post L1 and the searchlight emplacement in front of it.

By May, the definite plan was prepared for the invasion of the islands by the Regio Ezercito (Italian Royal Army), Regia Marina (Italian Royal Navy) and Regia Aeronautica (Italian Royal Air Force) together with the Germans. 

According to these plans, the main target in the invasion was going to be the southern part of Malta but this article is discussing the Mġarr area.

In Mġarr, there are no fewer than three pillboxes, which were built in close proximity to Fort Mosta, and a defensive structure at Tarġa Gap. The category of these pillboxes are known as reserve-posts − inland pillboxes that were constructed as the last line of defence along the Victoria Lines.

Within this context, the ‘Great Fault’ was still considered to be an important in-depth (fallback) line of defence in the event of a successful enemy landing in the north of Malta. The function of these pillboxes was to hinder the enemy from advancing from beneath the Great Fault up to the higher ground above, from where they could break through in the direction of the Valletta harbour area. Reserve-posts were built in certain locations along or very close to the Victoria Lines.

A close-up of the machine-gun porthole at the Kunċizzjoni pillbox overlooking Fomm ir-Riħ.

The Lascaris towers

The upkeep of the Lippija Tower was under the responsibility of the Maltese civil government. However, in early May 1940, the tower was being occupied by the War Department. A letter sent to the civil government informs us about the condition of the same coastal fortification. It says that the turret of the tower was in a dangerous condition and a request was made to dismantle it. 

A few days later, the secretary to the government was informed by the Department of Public Works that, some time before, it was repaired by the Royal Engineers and that the necessary works, which were estimated to cost £2, 10, 0 ( £2 and 10 shillings) were being undertaken by the same department. 

By the end of the same month, the military authorities were informed that repairs were being made by the Department of Public Works. The role of this tower during the war is not known but one may assume that the same building was incorporated in the coastal defence of Mġarr. 

Anti-invasion defences at Mġarr

Apart from the above-mentioned pillboxes, we know that, by July 1942, there were elements of two infantry battalions stationed in the Mġarr area, which were part of the 2nd Battalion, King’s Own Malta Regiment, and the 2nd Battalion, Royal Irish Fusiliers. These battalions formed part of the Northern Infantry Brigade. 

Beach-post GT1 overlooking Għajn Tuffieħa Bay

Two 18-pounder field guns were positioned to defend Għajn Tuffieħa Bay and Ġnejna Bay. These two bays were accessible for barges to land troops and advance rapidly towards their main targets. These howitzers − where observation was possible − were to fire up to 20 rounds. They were manned by 49/91 Battery, 12th Field Regiment, Royal Artillery (RA) under the overall command of the 26th Defence Regiment, RA. Apart from these field guns, anti-tank mines were laid at beaches’ exits, especially those suitable for the landing of tanks.

An old 6-pounder was positioned in Mġarr but the author has not identified where it was installed. The infantry battalions manning the pillboxes were armed with 66 and 73 anti-tank hand grenades, Molotov cocktails and each post was surrounded with 20 anti-tank mines. 

Although, by the end of the 19th century, the Victoria Lines had been abandoned, they were integrated with the fixed defences of the Northern Infantry Brigade, which formed a natural formidable tank obstacle. 

The western part of the Victoria Lines ends at Mġarr. It passes along Bin­ġemma and Fomm ir-Riħ, defending their respective valleys.

Concrete pyramid blocks (commonly known as dragon’s teeth) with spikes were laid at Għajn Tuffieħa Bay (known with the code 3130), in two rows along one fathom line five yards apart. Dragon’s teeth in the second line covered gaps in the first row.

On January 1, 1942, we know that there was an 18/25-pounder field gun positioned at Żebbiegħ. By February 23, 1943, there were four such field guns manned by the 49/91 Field Battery, RA. By this time, the 18-pounder field guns defending Ġnejna Bay and Għajn Tuffieħa Bay were manned by the 13th Defence Battery, RMA.

A view of Fomm ir-Riħ beach-post FR1

 Acknowledgements

The author wishes to thank Mario Vassallo for his generous help and the staff of the National Archives in Rabat for their continuous assistance. The aim of this article is to help raise public awareness about these priceless mili­tary structures in the hope that none of these pillboxes are taken into possession for private use. If anyone wishes to assist the author in any way regarding pillboxes in their village, town or city, they may e-mail him at charles.a.debono@gov.mt.

Charles Debono is the curator at the National War Museum.