I remember remarking, in a book about the sister island, that Malta is the more unpleasant part of Gozo. Is it still so, or is Gozo now striving to compete seriously with Malta as to which of them will turn more disagreeable?

Young Gozitan lacemakers, 1910s. All images from the author’s collectionsYoung Gozitan lacemakers, 1910s. All images from the author’s collections

Nature has, overall, been kind to Gozo. More variedly contoured than Malta, and markedly greener, Gozo only lacked the splendid harbours that gave Malta an edge.

An amazingly creative mankind seems to have discovered Gozo at about the same time as it appeared in Malta – see Ġgantija. And, for centuries, time froze in Gozo. At best, the march of progress was not really a march – more like a lethargic amble.

But, recently, Gozo started resenting falling back in the uglification race against Malta. It is reinventing itself, making sure that little flourishes that is not certifiably dreadful.

Yes, it has seen the erection of the Ta’ Pinu Sanctuary and the rebirth of the Cittadella. Good.

But the first symptoms of the philistine malaise were perhaps the deliberate shattering of the Xagħra Circle and the planned demolition of the only baroque civilian building in Gozo – the Banca Giuratale.

To compensate, Gozo shows finer taste at embellishing roundabouts than Malta does.

(To be continued)

Part of the ceremonies for the consecration of the bishop of Gozo –Mgr Michael Gonzi – in 1924.Part of the ceremonies for the consecration of the bishop of Gozo –Mgr Michael Gonzi – in 1924.

Races in Kerċem, 1913. Photo: Mikiel FarrugiaRaces in Kerċem, 1913. Photo: Mikiel Farrugia

One of the iconic Malta-Gozo ferry boats, the MV Gleneagles, 1910s.One of the iconic Malta-Gozo ferry boats, the MV Gleneagles, 1910s.

Popular Gozitan musicians known as Id-Dudi, 1910s. PHOTO: MIKIEL FARRUGIAPopular Gozitan musicians known as Id-Dudi, 1910s. PHOTO: MIKIEL FARRUGIA

A sea-urchins seller, c. 1900. Photo: Richard EllisA sea-urchins seller, c. 1900. Photo: Richard Ellis

Marsalforn c1900Marsalforn c1900

It-Tiġrija, Strada Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria, 1910s. Photo: Amateur, Mikiel FarrugiaIt-Tiġrija, Strada Fortunato Mizzi, Victoria, 1910s. Photo: Amateur, Mikiel Farrugia

Mġarr, Lourdes church and Fort Chambray, c1890.Mġarr, Lourdes church and Fort Chambray, c1890.

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