The Malta Tourism Authority signed an agreement with the Michelin Guide in 2019, bringing the cuisine-critiquing service to Malta and leading to the award of six stars to restaurants across the island since then.

The arrangement is similar to those made in other countries and regions, an MTA spokesperson explained.

Replying to questions from Times of Malta, the spokesperson said that four years ago, the authority and the Tourism Ministry felt that chefs across Malta and Gozo had reached a “high level of quality culinary experience”.

While tourists and locals acknowledged the country’s foodie attractions, there had yet to be international recognition from global benchmark setters such as Michelin, the tyre company that has since become equally famous for their food guides.

So in 2019, the authority and the ministry signed a five-year agreement with Michelin that would bring the culinary guide to Malta.

Since then, Malta has gained six stars in four years; three were awarded in 2020 and one has been given out each year since.

“The agreement is multi-faceted and it provides for anonymous and unannounced Michelin inspections of catering establishments around the Maltese islands,” the spokesperson said.

The agreement includes the annual announcement of establishments that reached the Michelin star rating or were recognised by the culinary authority, as well as the marketing of the Maltese islands with the Michelin brand.

However, the agreement in no way guarantees the award of Michelin stars.

You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get something good

Without giving details on the financial exchange, the spokesperson said that it was “on the same lines of several other agreements that Michelin has with other national, regional or city tourism organisations”.

Times of Malta has filed a Freedom of Information request for the agreement.

According to CNN, Thailand’s Tourism Authority reportedly paid over €3.7 million to Michelin for a five-year agreement back in 2017, which amounts to over €740,000 a year.

And according to The New York Times, Visit California (the American state’s tourism authority) paid Michelin around €572,000 in 2019 to have the guide visit their local eateries. While restaurants from the state had already been included in previous Michelin editions, 2019 saw top Los Angeles spots receive stars.

Meanwhile, the Colorado Tourism Office has agreed to contribute €95,000 a year to Michelin while tourism boards from Denver, Boulder, Aspen and Vail each pay similar yearly amounts, The New York Times reported.

Back in Malta, the MTA “has set up a gastronomy segment specifically to look at, promote and incentivise the industry holistically as tourists increasingly seek to explore more in the destinations they visit”.

Has Michelin lost its lustre?

While Michelin remains one of the culinary world’s most prestigious titles, the establishment has recently seen chefs and culinary experts speak out against the stress and pressure of maintaining such a high standard of dining.

A culture is growing of casual but quality-orientated cuisine which directly contradicts the high-pressure Michelin ethos, Crust chef patron Sean Gravina told Times of Malta in March.

“People nowadays prefer the casual, nice ambience atmosphere,” he said, noting that social media trends such as “food porn” posts have led to restaurants upping their game without the stresses of fine-dining culture.

“You don’t have to spend a lot of money to get something good, to get something stylish… you don’t have to spend over and above to get a good meal.”

However, Malta’s most recent Michelin recognition disagreed with Gravina’s perspective.

The star was awarded earlier this year to Fernandõ Gastrotheque, a small Sliema bistro that focuses on Mediterranean cuisine with a French style which the Michelin guide describes as “informal yet elegant”.

Head chef at the time, Laszlo Sragli, said that most chefs “dream” about receiving the honour.

“I’m pretty sure that if you ask the majority of chefs, even if they say they don’t, they want it.”

He explained that even when a chef calls it quits with the Michelin guide, their reputation has already been permanently affected for the better and will carry on into their next project, casual or not.