Last September, my wife and I joined a group on a holiday in Tyrol from where, among other places, we travelled to and visited Merano and Livigno, in Italy, Innsbruck, in Austria and other villages among the mighty Alps.

Our accommodation was in the picturesque Pfunds, in Austria, where we had the chance to visit the parish church treasured by the local community. The church is dedicated to St Paul (and St Peter) and the sculpture on the high altar represents the moment of his conversion. This biblical episode is being commemorated by the Catholic Church today.

The church

The church, with its outstanding white façade, stands in a small square, in the heart of Pfunds, situated on the river Inn near the border with Switzerland. Striking is the tall steeple, on its left, with its onion-shaped dark red dome on top and a large clock quite visible from all around. It contrasts beautifully with the white paint of the church building, the dark greenery around it and the blue sky over Tyrol.

History

Historians established that there was already a small church on that site in the 13th century. Still, from reports in the parish chronicle, from previous documentation of various historians and from research in the Tyrolean state archives, Peter Schwienbacher, mayor of Pfunds until 2003, gathered the following facts about the church:

It is documented that, from 1417, numerous donations were made for the building of a larger new church, to replace an older one, dedicated to St Peter, which had become too small for the growing community in Pfunds.

In 1493, the newly built church was consecrated to the apostles Peter and Paul, thus adding St Paul as the second patron saint of the church.

In 1506, a major fire destroyed the church.

Rebuilt and restored, the church was consecrated in 1514, although it could have already been in use since the Holy Sepulchre was built three years earlier.

The church was then extended in 1699 and three new side altars were consecrated six years later.

However, the present parish church – with its size and design – was rebuilt in 1820-21. The presbytery of the previous Gothic building was preserved.

The inscription ‘Built by the community of Pfunds in honour of the princes of the apostles Peter and Paul in the year MDCCCXXI’ [1821] on the main entrance of the church, immortalises the date of completion of the building.

The new church was consecrated in 1832. It is Romanesque in style.

Art treasures

On the main altar stands a stylised relief of red clay sculpture by Josef Staud (1903-1980), with three life-size figures and a prancing horse, representing the moment of conversion of St Paul on his way to Damascus [Acts 19: 3-9].

The composition consists of the figure of the risen Christ standing majestically against the cross he was crucified on radiating rays of light that blinded Saul of Tarsus, who lies on the ground on the left of Jesus. At the back, there is the figure of a rearing horse – the horse Saul was riding and from which he fell off − and the figure of Peter, on the right of Christ (as he is always represented), holding a cross, on which he would eventually be crucified, upside down.

While Peter looks up at Jesus, it is Jesus who looks directly down into the eyes of Saul in a powerful means of communication, in the moment he asks him: “Saul, Saul, why do you persecute me?” [Acts 9: 4].

It was when Saul was baptised that he chose to be called Paul.

This is the titular representation of the apostles Peter and Paul, to whom the church is dedicated. However, with Christ in the centre, the episode symbolises the explosive power of the message of Jesus.

The figures are elongated and slim as in Staud’s style.

The church received this sculpture on the occasion of its renovation and redesign from 1959-1961. What had been preserved from the altar figures from the earlier altar was placed in the nave.

The community of Pfunds celebrates the feast of the saints, as in Malta, on June 29 of each year.

Oil painting

A large painting on canvas, depicting St Paul – with the index finger of his right hand pointing towards heavens above and with his left hand bidding farewell to St Peter at whom he is looking – being carried to the place of execution by Roman soldiers, is attributed (according the church’s chronicles) to painter Georg Schilcher.

Today, this painting hangs on the right-hand side wall of the church, near the main altar.

Pulpit, baptismal font and choir

The impressive baroque pulpit was created by the local artist Engelbert Steiner around 1825.

The old baptismal font, from around 1580, was preserved in spite of the many impacts, renovations and changes. The choir within is Gothic in style.

Stained glass windows

The walls of the church have large, beautifully coloured figures of saints in stained glass windows, among them one dedicated to Tertiary of St Francis, St Crescentia and another to St Catherine. They are marvellous and, besides letting in natural light to help show the wonders that embellish the interior, they bewitch the eyes of the beholder.

The pipe organ, dating from 1869, is used for liturgical music and concerts.

On the ceiling of the church are some coloured stucco figures representing scenes from the lives of St Peter and St Paul as well as other biblical and historical figures.

The St Peter and St Paul parish church in Pfunds is a protected monument and is considered a remarkable cultural building, listed by the Tyrolean Art Cadastre.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to especially Fr Franz Hinterholzer, parish priest of St Peter and St Paul parish, and dean and head of the Prutz and Dreiländereck pastoral care areas, Peter Schwienbacher (ex-mayor of Pfunds till 2003) and to Sylvia Mader, whose essay about the sculpture in Pfarrbrief – the parish newsletter, in Pfunds – I used for some information.