The origins of lace making in Malta have, so far, not been accurately documented. Through notarial inventories, dowry contacts and painted portraits we know that both knights and ladies adorned themselves with lace since the seicento. Artists Favray and Zahra made fine lace their signature fingerprint in portraits.
The more generally accepted origin of Maltese lace claims a Genoese DNA. I am not that sure. Usually, the vernacular word for an object gives away its origin. A North Italian etymology would have derivatives of merletto or trina while Maltese bizzilla hints to a Sicilian derivation – pizzu, pizzuteddu.
Maltese lace flourished again when Queen Victoria started wearing it after ordering an inordinate number of mitts and a scarf from the island.
Giuseppe Valenti modelled the sovereign wearing a Malta lace shawl in her 1891 monument in Pjazza Reġina.
Most postcard publishers included images of lace makers. Rightly so, as Malta lace had established a presence in the islands’ folklore.
I am showing a random selection across time. My grandfather, Giovanni, an early publisher, followed the trend. Thereby hangs a tale.
He hired a photographer, a studio with the right props and costumes and a girl to pose as a lace maker.
The model failed to turn up and grandpa panicked at the thought of all those fruitless costs. He commandeered my reluctant father, Vincenzo, a beardless lad, into standing in for her.
My bemused father told me this story but, for long, I could not acquire an image of the unwilling transvestite.
I finally managed to find the postcard through a foreign internet dealer. It was father! On the back someone had handwritten: Vincenzo Bonello nel 1905!
All photos from the author's collection.