Attention to traditions is becoming an increasingly important aspect of fashion today. However, the respectful approach to African culture that the Russian capital displayed in October is almost unprecedented. At Moscow Fashion Week and the large-scale BRICS+ Fashion Summit, designers from South Africa, Egypt, Libya, Tanzania, Benin, Sudan, Rwanda, Burundi, and other countries on the continent shone brighter than ever.
The connection between past and future
One of the highlights of the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, attended by leading fashion industry representatives from over 100 countries, was the Heritage exhibition. The influence of the national heritage of developing countries in Asia, Africa, and Latin America on modern clothing design was evident in the exhibition. This trend, a natural reaction to the globalisation of fashion and the dominance of major international conglomerates, has significantly boosted interest in ethnography, crafts, and traditional techniques.
The Libyan brand Born In Exile showcased at the Heritage exhibition how the past is connected to the future and how traditions are reflected in the sustainable development of fashion. The brand places paramount importance on working with factories that prioritise the well-being of their employees and adhere to ethical labour practices. The South African brand Sun Goddess presented luxurious handmade items, authentic fabrics, and unique palettes embodying the essence of the nation.
Designer Emma Amoani, who now lives in the United States, honours her traditions and roots—her family is from Ghana. Africa inspires her to create vibrant collections using exclusively eco-friendly methods. The works of the brand Tanga Designs from Rwanda also drew the attention of exhibition guests, striking a harmonious balance between innovative digital fashion and national diversity: animal prints, traditional patterns, and bright colours.
Designers loudly declared their national identity on the runway of Moscow Fashion Week.Moscow Fashion Week: From folk costumes to haute couture
Designers loudly declared their national identity on the runway of Moscow Fashion Week, which this season impressed with its international scope – from India to Brazil, from China and the UAE to Costa Rica. At this fashion event, a South African participant, the unique brand Tshegofatso By Design, also successfully presented its collection, celebrating the culture and beauty of its country. Avant-garde combined with grunge created a sensational duo in the collection, while more universal looks ensured its functionality.
Many Russian designers at Moscow Fashion Week also turned to their roots. The brand Hatsibana presented classic haute couture yet incorporated traditional patterns and a contemporary interpretation of folk headwear characteristic of its homeland, Kabardino-Balkaria. Atelier Irina Vorobyeva imagined what Russian folk costumes might look like in the modern world, making national ornaments and dresses with semi-transparent hems the main elements of the collection.
The main inspiration for the Russian brand BEENA was the modern interpretation of the national costume, complemented by the traditional headpiece of the Chuvash people. An important accent was the breast ornament made of silver coins, which is considered a protective talisman. The brand SaiJamin offered a harmonious symbiosis of tradition and modernity based on the rich cultural code of the Circassian people. Viewers watched as capes in a traditional aesthetic with accented golden buttons and an allusion to folk dresses took centre stage.